How to clean a flatbed belt with overprint

[Joshua Barnes]

I thought I posted this before, but can't find it. I have a Scitex HP FB750. Does anybody know a good method of cleaning overprint off a flatbed belt. We have years of overprint caked onto the belt, and we are trying to find a better way to get it cleaned off. Some of the overprint is so thick that it is messing up our prints and getting in the way of the media drop bar.

 

[Boudica]

I use scraps of Hi tac vinyl, or blue tape. I also have those plastic razor blades for the really built up tough stuff.
Here is a link to another thread about this

any tricks for getting UV ink off my belt?

I print a lot of full bleed boards on my Scitex FB700 and there is a lot of buildup in certain areas to the point where you can see the bumps through roll media. Although it is not effecting things yet in undoubtedly will in the near future and was wondering if anyone had any Useful tricks on...

www.signs101.com

word to the wise - don't let it build up for years - you've now got your work cut out for you

 

[brdesign]

at the end of the day spray a section of the belt with isopropyl or denatured alcohol and cover it with plastic or something to slow the evaporation, let it sit overnight. The next morning rewet it with alcohol and let that soak for about 15 minutes and start scraping with a plastic razor blade. Then use some scrap vinyl to squeegee down and pull up some more of the ink. Just keep doing one section a day until you go around the entire belt.

 

[FireSprint.com]

We really like Briteline Shield (Grimco) overlam for this. We keep a roll by the printer for this purpose.

 

[Creative Sign Guy(s)]

I use InterTape brand packing tape. Squeegee it down really well both directions(up/down and left/right). Pull it up really fast.
Spots that are stubborn I use iso alc and cover it with plastic for 10-20 minutes and then scrape it off with dulled scraps of polystyrene. I was told anything harder than polystyrene can damage the belt.
Once the belt is clean I apply armor all.

 

[FrankW]

My experience is that isopropyl helps more if the ink layer is scratched, for example with a metal Squeege.

 

[Creative Sign Guy(s)]

My experience is that isopropyl helps more if the ink layer is scratched, for example with a metal Squeege.

I was told by an HP tech that anything harder than polystyrene can damage the belt. I do not know if that is legit info, but something to consider before using metal on it.

 

[FrankW]

I was a certified technician for the Scitex FB, and I know that the belt is out of Kevlar, a material bulletproof vests are made of. You need a lot of power and stupid handling to damage the belt. Just try it on a small edge of the belt to even scratch it.

 

[Creative Sign Guy(s)]

I was a certified technician for the Scitex FB, and I know that the belt is out of Kevlar, a material bulletproof vests are made of. You need a lot of power and stupid handling to damage the belt. Just try it on a small edge of the belt to even scratch it.

Thanks for the info. I'll test it out on Monday.

 

[ikarasu]

Do you guys use packing foam?

If you can get your hands on methanol it works 100x better than Alcohol does. We just spray it with methanol, put some foam over it... Let it sit for 20 mins and when we come back all the ink is curled / caked off. Then we use a plastic scrapers to scrape all the flakes away and off the belt. You can do the front and the back at the same time for twice the speed.

 

[Boudica]

I was a certified technician for the Scitex FB, and I know that the belt is out of Kevlar, a material bulletproof vests are made of. You need a lot of power and stupid handling to damage the belt. Just try it on a small edge of the belt to even scratch it.

Wondering how long ago that was, and if it's true for post HP takeover? When we first got ours, we we told not to use solvents, or anything thing that could cut the belt. Because replacing the belt would require sending the whole machine back. Not something that can be replaced on site.

 

[ikarasu]

We were told for our fb500 to be careful with the belt. If it breaks they need to send an engineer out (can be done on site) and it's a 15-20k replacement cost..we've been using methanol and alcohol on it for years, but we only ever take a plastic blade to it and not a metal.

 

[Boudica]

Ours is being out moded, and we'll be selling it... If we slow down and we don't need both flat beds. The new one is agfa Annapurna. No ink on the bed allowed. But it's a serious upgrade, lightening fast in comparison, so I think the hp's day's are numbered.

 

[FrankW]

Try to scratch the color layer only. Breaking it up will make it easier to let isopropyl into the ink layer and finally easier to remove it with less hard tools. Of course avoid to cut into it, use metal tools carefully.

Yes, replacing the belt is a very expensive repair. But you all can be shure that it is very hard to cut into it even with a knife, much more difficult with a metal squeeze. My suggestions are for Scitex FB only, no idea about the R-Series.

One problem with liquids on the belt is that it can run through the holes into the vacuum fans.

Best way is to avoid ink on the belt, specially to let ink built up until the belt is uneven. It is easier to clean the belt immediately than after letting it built up over months or years.