HP Designjet L25500 drying problems

[Ambrose]

I have an L25500 and have noticed that after a job is printed and left on the roll for a few hrs the prints have an oily surface when unrolled. The oily surface was not evident before the prints were going on the take up.

Does anyone know whats happening here?

Does anyone have an effective method to test if the ink is fully cured when setting up a new media?

dan:Australia

 

[jens]

hi
( its a bit testing )

1/increase the Dry heater temp, and maybe the Cure heater. (55 -60)

2/increase number of passes (if 1 does not solve the problem) (115- ...)
3/ lower your ink settings. (100 ? )
you can do this in the rip or profile

 

[MachServTech]

I have seen this on a couple of materials, mostly backlit.

Increase airflow and increase temp by increments of 10%

 

[Ambrose]

Thanks for your response guys,

I have tested across 2 machines for every speed from 8 pass Uni to 12 pass BI using a black test file down to 240% total ink limit. Temps at 120 & 55 degrees with increased airflow.

All prints have some degree on Oily surface down the left side on both printers.

Attached is the test file used and the results.

What do you think.

dan:Australia

 

[jens]

the ink limits are to high i think.


my ink limits are 90 -100 in caldera.
but my profiles are made on 4 passUni

 

[MachServTech]

I would agree with jens assessment, I wonder how you came to determine these were correct ink limits?

 

[jens]

by testing, but its a bit a problem to get it right. I use Caldera RIP and the patch only goes till 100 % . So i have to guess. Did you already tested printing in 4pass ?of 2 pass ? can it be done ?

 

[aerospacial]

i am using photoprint and have no option for 4 pass,
in fact it starts with 6 pass, then 8, 10 and 12 passes... i ussualy use 10 pass. but sometimes... lost a job because it doesnt cure.

I'm not satisfied with this machine.....

 

[Kolorskemes]

I also have this machine and have actually requested that it gets taken back. I have been using the reseller materials with resellers profiles. So far I have printed 469sqm in 4 weeks and have been able to sell just 100sqm. Prints are stretching, warping and there is a film that wipes off after the print has been left to dry (even using HP Cast Vinyl). Have wasted 100s of metres of media trying to sort it it out. Eventually lost patience and am sending it back. Now looking at UV instead!

 

[jens]

thats a shame,
if you had made some profiles or did some testing it runs like an old HP5500
good luck with your choise

 

[marcsitkin]

We have seen this when too much ink has been put down. IT often happens when printing bidirectionally. Fix is to slow it down, cut the ink back, and print unidirectionally.

Those prints with the oily surface can be easily salvage. Use a heat gun at low temp to dry them off. We recently did this for some banners, worked out fine.

 

[Spaceflunky]

We just got done with our first print and the oily residue ruined our print. The first 3 ft or so came out perfect. So we put it on the take up reel and let it go. When they guys were getting ready to laminate it they noticed the problem.

The only thing i can think of doing is turning up the heat a bit and use "low ink" instead of "high"

 

[HulkSmash]

the ink limits are to high i think.


my ink limits are 90 -100 in caldera.
but my profiles are made on 4 passUni

ew, 4 pass?

but to the original post..
your curing temperature is too low. What do you have it on?

 

[Bly]

We are just profiling our media for this machine now.
Yes there are lots of settings to screw up but once you have it set up right it prints well.
If you want to tweak a profile print out this guide from HP.
http://h10088.www1.hp.com/gap/downl...add_new_substrate_iq_troubleshooting_v1.0.pdf
Alternatively download profiles for a similar media and try them.
http://h10088.www1.hp.com/cda/gap/d...zn=gap&cp=20000-13698-12989^291465_4041_100__

 

[signage]

Colorado you do realize the thread is over a year old?

 

[P Wagner]

In my experience, the High Ink setting is only used for certain fabric medias, and not advisable for paper, most films (excepting backlit), vinyls, or scrim banner media classes.

Frankly, this is a setting that should be defined by the Media Profile, and not be toggled on or off by the user of the profile (this is assuming that you are using 'canned' profiles not created in-house).

 

[HulkSmash]

Colorado you do realize the thread is over a year old?

oops. Didn't realize it... and i didn't unarchive it either.

oh well

 

[Spaceflunky]

well i thought we were ready for an actual job with all the test prints we did yesterday but i still have some more tweaking to do. Once we get this thing going tho, i can tell that its going to really pump out some work.

 

[dypinc]

Been dealing with lower curing temps on the left 12" or so my L25500 for a while now and am trying to decide if replacing the resistors will fix this or if I would be better off just upgrading to a L260. It is bad enough that more passes and more heat is not really working as that is what I have been doing for a while now. And, no it is not under warranty.

Appeantly uneven heating temp is a problem on the L25500 which the the L260 does not have or to the same degree. Anyone with direct experience of this?

Anyone have this problem on the L25500 and had resistors replaced? Did it fix the uneven heating?

Any comments on the difference in ink durability etc. of the L25500 to the L260/L26500?

 

[juf1an]

I also have this problem, when i print backlite the print is pretty, but, 12 hours after, the print look oily. In the vinyl this happen in lower proportion.