Costaricanprinter
New Member
I've only tried vinyl, but I'm having a lot of problems. I'm using Orafol 3561. It warps from heat and it's impossible to laminate. What should I do? I have to wrap a 15-meter truck next week.
-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Need Help I bought an R5070, and I need help
- Thread starter Costaricanprinter
- Start date
You're going to wrap a truck eit permanent calandered vinyl? You do need some help!
Anyways. What profile are you printing with? Did your tech not go through how to use the printer with you?
My guess is you're on the wrong profile and it's using too much heat. I can print on cheap $100 rolls with no warp / bubbling.
I havent. Hecked if there's a 3561 profile, I don't use orajet much - but download a profile for ij35 or similar and try that.
Anyways. What profile are you printing with? Did your tech not go through how to use the printer with you?
My guess is you're on the wrong profile and it's using too much heat. I can print on cheap $100 rolls with no warp / bubbling.
I havent. Hecked if there's a 3561 profile, I don't use orajet much - but download a profile for ij35 or similar and try that.
Costaricanprinter
New Member
I use 3561 profile
Use the 3561 profile chance nothing
When I try to laminante the vinyl is complete warp , then try printing with less heat but the print come out grease ( as the tech talk me is the optimized is not completely cured )
That print has easy to laminante but when put it o the graphtec the cuts became a taco
Yes the tech show me everything, I print a full roll and got no problem then Switch to the orfafol an the nightmare began.
Use the 3561 profile chance nothing
When I try to laminante the vinyl is complete warp , then try printing with less heat but the print come out grease ( as the tech talk me is the optimized is not completely cured )
That print has easy to laminante but when put it o the graphtec the cuts became a taco
Costaricanprinter
New Member
Whats the lowest temp you can print And got a good cured?
90% of my prints are laminate Can I lowed the op number so use less heat on the cure process , got more than 10 years printing ecosolvent I thought the learning curve would be easier
Sorry for my bad English,
90% of my prints are laminate Can I lowed the op number so use less heat on the cure process , got more than 10 years printing ecosolvent I thought the learning curve would be easier
Sorry for my bad English,
Costaricanprinter
New Member
210 laminate , it’s something temporary… i—80 is way to expensive here ( Costa Rica )
The problem is the heat and profile , I am completely new to this print technology can’t figure out the right settings
Zoogee World
Domed Promotional Product Supplier
As mentioned earlier, I wouldn't put on a permanent adhesive for a temporary thing. Find a better suited removable adhesive media. Maybe talk to your local dealer and see what they have at a reasonable price point in both vinyl and laminate that are compatible for your printer.
Costaricanprinter
New Member
Maybe I explane my self wrong , on the 3641 I print die cut stickers the problem with the laminate happens on old the vinyls
Here’s asome photos of the problem ,the sticker turns on a taco right when is cut on the graphtec
Attachments
frankzilla
New Member
Orafol paper just wrinkles and warps. I print only graphics that will not be laminated with it.
The warping is the paper and heat and there is no way around it except to use a different brand and model. ink needs to cure.
You need to use something else such as Arlon 510 and better if you are laminating and cutting small cheap stickers. The paper is different and doesn't warp.
If you are wrapping a flat surface, you need to at least use Arlon 8500 or better yet, use 3M IJ35 material at a minimum, but rather than calendared material, just stop being cheap, do it properly and use a cast material like 3M IJ180 or Avery's, or Arlon's line. I don't usually use Orajet cast, so I don't know if the paper will do the same, but not going to waste money finding out as the others are usually better priced or more readily in stock.
The warping is the paper and heat and there is no way around it except to use a different brand and model. ink needs to cure.
You need to use something else such as Arlon 510 and better if you are laminating and cutting small cheap stickers. The paper is different and doesn't warp.
If you are wrapping a flat surface, you need to at least use Arlon 8500 or better yet, use 3M IJ35 material at a minimum, but rather than calendared material, just stop being cheap, do it properly and use a cast material like 3M IJ180 or Avery's, or Arlon's line. I don't usually use Orajet cast, so I don't know if the paper will do the same, but not going to waste money finding out as the others are usually better priced or more readily in stock.
Make your own profile. The Epson takes very little heat compared to a Latex, I've printed on a ton of material we couldn't print on with our latex - Even cheap $100 rolls print fine...you just need to make your own profile. Latex / Resin is different from solvent, you cant just use 1 profile for every media - Certain medias use cheap paper that warps (Like orafol), some medias require more heat because theyre so thick, some medias dont like heat + fan, such as banner, because the banner will retain its heated shape...etc. I only see cast profiles for orafol on the epson dashboard... Cast can handle more heat than calendared, and thats likely where your issue lies. Find a calendared from another company and try that.
There is also no magic lowest heating #. It all depends on how much ink you're using, what the material can withstand, how fast you're printing, etc.
Turn off the temp of the back, and mid heating so its just the front heater going - Then it wont heat up as much, and wont affect curing. Thats a "quick" fix I use to do for banners - it works pretty will and may solve your issue.
Second option would be to use a slower print mode - Print with higher passes, then lower the heat. it'll sit under the heater for longer and dry.
The epson edge dashboard has a link to the Manual - The manual has very specific, easy instructions on how to customize media, add new media, fix certain media problems... wrinkling is actually in there.
There is also no magic lowest heating #. It all depends on how much ink you're using, what the material can withstand, how fast you're printing, etc.
Turn off the temp of the back, and mid heating so its just the front heater going - Then it wont heat up as much, and wont affect curing. Thats a "quick" fix I use to do for banners - it works pretty will and may solve your issue.
Second option would be to use a slower print mode - Print with higher passes, then lower the heat. it'll sit under the heater for longer and dry.
The epson edge dashboard has a link to the Manual - The manual has very specific, easy instructions on how to customize media, add new media, fix certain media problems... wrinkling is actually in there.