Joining the Oce Arizona Club

[White Haus]

We have a 460GT and switched to Printfactory from Onyx. Way easier to build profiles and maintain color. I'd also suggest Lipla Inks from CMYK Engineering. It gave our heads new life and covers fingerprints and sheet blemishes unbelievably.

Did you guys switch from 256 inkset to Lipla inks by any chance? Fingerprints and fragility of this inkset is insane. I don't even try to print on most substrates because of it. No amount of prepping will result in acceptable print quality on some materials. Fresh coroplast straight from a skid is generally fine, but anything else is risky.

 

[White Haus]

Shopping the used marketplace for dongles, figure it might be easier. Might also just set up a profile for RIIN and go full on Chinese RIP.

Let me check what the status of our dongle/onyx is. I know our Arizona 318gl came with "Oce edition" onyx thrive. We've since updated to newer versions and added seats etc but maybe we have the original somewhere? I'll check. Can't remember if original dongle gets updated or if we actually got a new physical one w/ upgrades.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Yup, got the printer through the CMYK Engineering guys. Using their inkset at the moment and been really happy with it. We do have colorimeters, so can make profiles as we go too. But, had decent luck with stock profiles as well. From what I have read, the dongle can get updated as it's cheaper than outright getting a new edition.

 

[CMYKENGINEERING]

Did you guys switch from 256 inkset to Lipla inks by any chance? Fingerprints and fragility of this inkset is insane. I don't even try to print on most substrates because of it. No amount of prepping will result in acceptable print quality on some materials. Fresh coroplast straight from a skid is generally fine, but anything else is risky.

Do you mean Lipla gets fingerprints and is fragile? I don't see that we sold to you under anything resembling your username, but the experience of the vast majority of our customers is exactly opposite to what I think you said.

If you try to use Lipla in the same way as OEM ink, I agree that you will have a bad time. That's because OEM uses lots of solvent to aid in adhesion, so users get used to buying non-digital print media. Media actually designed for digital printing is corona-charged.

Actual UV media and Lipla ink results in just about the opposite of what you described.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

I've been using it to great effect on leather using a stock textile profile and even glass. That said, I have zero experience with OEM inks and just fire from the hip and see what works.

 

[White Haus]

Do you mean Lipla gets fingerprints and is fragile? I don't see that we sold to you under anything resembling your username, but the experience of the vast majority of our customers is exactly opposite to what I think you said.

If you try to use Lipla in the same way as OEM ink, I agree that you will have a bad time. That's because OEM uses lots of solvent to aid in adhesion, so users get used to buying non-digital print media. Media actually designed for digital printing is corona-charged.

Actual UV media and Lipla ink results in just about the opposite of what you described.

Sorry, re-reading my original post I see how I wasn't clear. We're using OEM Canon 256 series ink, NOT your Lipla ink.

I've considered switching to your ink a few times but not sure it's worth it at this point. We're past the 10 year mark on our printer and realistically will probably replace it with something else in the next couple of years.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

For me at least, older printers are the best for experimenting with inks.

 

[tollerdad]

Sorry, re-reading my original post I see how I wasn't clear. We're using OEM Canon 256 series ink, NOT your Lipla ink.

I've considered switching to your ink a few times but not sure it's worth it at this point. We're past the 10 year mark on our printer and realistically will probably replace it with something else in the next couple of years.

I was looking to replace my Arizona but after switching to Lipla inks my heads have performed great. So much better than the 256 inks. You will not regret it.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Did some acrylic samples for someone this weekend and the adhesion was crazy good without any surface treatment or primers. Pondering setting it up in a JFX200 as well.

 

[White Haus]

Did some acrylic samples for someone this weekend and the adhesion was crazy good without any surface treatment or primers. Pondering setting it up in a JFX200 as well.

This is with the Lipla inks in your Arizona? Man I want to switch now lol. No fingerprints/contamination from handling?

I'll say the adhesion on the OEM 256 ink is pretty damn good but it shows everything.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Never used the OEM ink myself, but just for acrylic in general, adhesion tends to be mediocre. White material, multiple passes to build up volume and did some tape tear testing and it held up. Not using special profiles, just whatever I could get on the old copy of onyx for their heavy textile (wanted lots of ink) profile. Typically we do LUS-150 (Mimaki and aftermarket) and LH100, which is supposed to be good for acrylic and this is WAY better. We do make an effort when printing stuff that's going out to avoid fingerprints, but not being able to use alcohol or acetone means we have to be extra careful. Short of licking the acrylic or wiping it all over my skin, it seems to do just fine with minor contamination.

 

[tollerdad]

Did you guys switch from 256 inkset to Lipla inks by any chance? Fingerprints and fragility of this inkset is insane. I don't even try to print on most substrates because of it. No amount of prepping will result in acceptable print quality on some materials. Fresh coroplast straight from a skid is generally fine, but anything else is risky.

Yes, 256 inks to Lipla inks. I use ink promoter with white on acrylic unless a DA acrylic. Otherwise, all other substrates have great durability and it goes right over fingerprints and even material defects. I'll usually dust off the sheet and away we go.

 

[tollerdad]

This is with the Lipla inks in your Arizona? Man I want to switch now lol. No fingerprints/contamination from handling?

I'll say the adhesion on the OEM 256 ink is pretty damn good but it shows everything.

The inks have more of a matte finish common with most uv printers these days.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

As for post-printing, just did a test, as long as all the passes are done, no fingerprints in the ink on coroplast at least. Rubbed hands across the print with some force (enough to dent in the surface) without issue.

Tape test on coroplast isn't great, heavy ink areas pull off. Then again, using an untreated sheet that sat on the floor for who knows how long might've skewed results. I do like to test extremes though.