JV3-250SP Error 09 HDC

[Warped&Proud]

What did I do to deserve this?

Control circuit board is defective? Is it the main PCB or could it be cause by the slider pcb?

This is the same machine that has been acting up for the better part of a month, progressively getting worse.

And it gets better - we *NEED* this machine operational by next Tuesday, or we're dead in the water for a large job.

 

[Warped&Proud]

That's odd...

We booted it back up from being cold (off) for a couple minutes and it DIDN'T throw the "error 09 hdc" again. We tried a test print and after about 6" or so, we got this:

ERROR 07 ( _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ )

That tells me we have a connection problem with one of the heads, but it can't figure out which one.

More details - we have been having problems with this printer not producing *ANY* print. Not even a test draw.

It was suggested that we check the ribbon cables from the heads to the slider board. We checked each one, and reseated them. Back on and it throws the ERROR 07 ( _ _ _ _ * _ _ _ ) indicating a problem with the left side of the cyan head.

Reseat, test, same deal. We then swapped it out with a used, but known good head that was only about 6 months old. That is the one that seems to be causing problems. Maybe it is bad to?

 

[Samurai_Screwdriver]

If the problem is intermittent (i.e. switching between Error 07 and Error 09) then you may have a problem with the main FPC Cables that run between the Slider PCB and the Main PCB. It's not uncommon for these to be sliced by a sharp edge on one of the covers or to have the flex wear through causing one of the tracks to short against the frame of the printer.

A visual inspection may turn something up but the best test would be to try swapping in a new set of cables.

 

[CustomRide]

What did I do to deserve this?

Control circuit board is defective? Is it the main PCB or could it be cause by the slider pcb?

This is the same machine that has been acting up for the better part of a month, progressively getting worse.

And it gets better - we *NEED* this machine operational by next Tuesday, or we're dead in the water for a large job.

Call Mimaki's tech support in Atlanta and demand they give you the technicians service manual and parts manual in pdf for via email. They will try to say they are not allowed but tell them you don't care they will give it up. You need to have that kind of info on hand cause not everyone works on 9-5 est time.

Second we have noticed that a lot of electrical boards seem to go out on mimaki's versus our Rolands....I don't know what their deal is but its pretty damn aggravating, for example they say remedy is either replace board A and if problem still persist replace board B and both boards are $1200 a piece not to mention tech time if you don't do it yourself. Some of their service manuals can be super vague like it was translated from japanese to english using common words and phrases not helping out at all.

Sorry I can't be of more help I just know sometimes codes given off the control panel don't end up matching to the correct problem when all is said and done but you need the mimaki tech manuals sometimes to start really troubleshooting.

 

[Warped&Proud]

Again, thanks for the input Dave!

Right now it seems to be hovering on the Cyan head, with that empty Error 07. The right half somply will not fire, even after the small slider pcb -> print head cables had been swapped.

We are going to have a really long, hard look at the sliber pcb -> mainboard cables today.

That would also explain a lot if they had gone bad... I know from experience, even small ribbon cables are not cheap. The MSRP from Mimaki is $795 for the set.

 

[Warped&Proud]

Thanks for the input Custom Ride. Are you the guy I heard about that is doing dye-sub on fabric for custom laminated aluminum/fiberglass chopper tanks?

We have both a PDF and Printed maintenance manual. I've made some friends.

Also, we are looking at a Gandinnovations Jeti 3324 AquaJet to possibly replace this machine, but we won't be able to get it in time for the job that is pressing. Looks like it's going to get printed narrow and seemed...

 

[Warped&Proud]

I feel like a complete idiot...

How to kill a JV3-250SP using water-based dye-sub inks.

Step One

Replace your *WORKING* and perfectly fine pass-through ink cartridges for your *WORKING* bulk ink system with a bulk ink cartridges with ink wells built in. Make sure they have excessively large openings at the top to allow for an insade amount of moisture/air conversion into the cart, causing your water-based ink to prematurely coagulate and clog your lines...

Step Two

Fill the unit with a batch of ever so slightly bad ink.

Step Three

Make sure to only run non-aquis JV3 heads in the machine. Using cheap remanufactured print heads from an unknown source is guarenteed to to help grind production into the &%#@!$G ground...

For all those who run JV3 printers converted over to water-based dye-sub inks, please stay tunes. We think we might have resolved almost two months worth of issues with the above mentioned printer.

Short answer: Non-aquis (solvent) print heads. Batch of bad ink. Bulk ink cartridges with HUGE openings allowing for way too much air transfer with the ink.

Additional detail: From now on, we are only using JV4 (aquis) print heads in this machine. Our failure rate with JV3 heads is just way too high. I know, they are technically the same, only the JV3 heads have been converted for solvent ink use. I think that may be the problem...

 

[axellisten]

Hello

Please excuse me I am Argentinian and do not understand English and technical language well. I had several problems with a JV33 with dye sublimation inks and I am having ERROR 09 HDC ERROR (0---) once a week. If you can please explain me more what happened in the post y quoted I would be really thanked.

Thanks a lot

Axel

I feel like a complete idiot...

How to kill a JV3-250SP using water-based dye-sub inks.

Step One

Replace your *WORKING* and perfectly fine pass-through ink cartridges for your *WORKING* bulk ink system with a bulk ink cartridges with ink wells built in. Make sure they have excessively large openings at the top to allow for an insade amount of moisture/air conversion into the cart, causing your water-based ink to prematurely coagulate and clog your lines...

Step Two

Fill the unit with a batch of ever so slightly bad ink.

Step Three

Make sure to only run non-aquis JV3 heads in the machine. Using cheap remanufactured print heads from an unknown source is guarenteed to to help grind production into the &%#@!$G ground...

For all those who run JV3 printers converted over to water-based dye-sub inks, please stay tunes. We think we might have resolved almost two months worth of issues with the above mentioned printer.

Short answer: Non-aquis (solvent) print heads. Batch of bad ink. Bulk ink cartridges with HUGE openings allowing for way too much air transfer with the ink.

Additional detail: From now on, we are only using JV4 (aquis) print heads in this machine. Our failure rate with JV3 heads is just way too high. I know, they are technically the same, only the JV3 heads have been converted for solvent ink use. I think that may be the problem...

 

[kunlaci]

same problem, dye-sub Mimaki JV4

Hi guys,
I had the same problem, but now it's getting worst.I put new cables, nothing,
even if I take out the head cables from 4 heads which link to the hdc-4 head panel,the machine "runs" like it's nothing happend, I check the slider bord- it's ok, now I checked the HDC-4, HDC-2 and they are ok,no I'm going to the mainboard, but honestly I don't now what to do.....
Any suggestion is welcome...
Thanks!