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Lamps Shutting off

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cwb143

New Member
few months ago we replaced K9 relay on our Jeti 3150x-2 gandi.
and that seemed to have solved our problems until now. We get the lamp
1 sum error again. Relays look fine. It always seems to shut off after 2-4hours of use. or the temp is higher than 82 or both. Filters, relays, everything looks good. Any ideas what else could be the culprit?

thanks
 
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biggce55

New Member
I have a 1224, try replacing the UV bulb. We purchase ours through Western Quartz in California. I had a similar issue and normally if the K9 relay, and the filters are clean, check out the bulb itself. A few months back we had the shutter profile and reflectors go bad in one of the curing units, which I had to purchase through Honle direct (2/3 the cost of buying directly via AGFA). Also how does the quartz glass look?
 
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cwb143

New Member
yeah we replaced both quartz glass. So they are new. Lamps we have changed a couple of times. I have 3 sets of lamps. How do you know if a
reflector is bad or profile?
 
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cwb143

New Member
Looks like a K6 relay went out now. Could be the problem all along. This machine is 4 years old so things are starting to wear out.
 
uvgerard

uvgerard

New Member
UV lamp keep shutting down

Your 1224 uses what are called metal halide lamps. “Metal halide” is a broad term used to describe a wide variety of gaseous discharge arc lamps in which the gas-filled arc tube operates at several times the normal atmospheric pressure. The various types of metal halide lamps are categorized and named by the type of additive contained within the arc tube. Examples are gallium, indium, cadmium and iron.On a practical basis metal halide lamps especially iron iodide lamps such as those used in the 1224 are fraught with operating issues. They are hard to start, must be run only at high power and are extremely easy to overcool. Metal halide lamps have a strict temperature profile and are not intended to be dimmed i.e. operated at reduced power. These lamps are designed, electrode chosen and bulbs shaped based on a certain power. Lamp output will not remain stable unless operated at high power level. Always start a lamp at high power.Iron iodide metal halide lamps are prone to overcooling. Lamps must have a minimum wall temperature in excess of 357oC, the boiling point of mercury. Below this temperature mercury and other additives will condense on the inner lamp surface turning the tubing dark silver to black. Once this plating has occurred, the effect is irreversible. It only takes a short time for an overcooled–glow mode–lamp to fail. A competent UV system will monitor lamp temperature and reduce cooling accordingly. An overcooled lamp willalways operate at reduced voltage resulting in lower UV output. Their light output will appear dim, certainly not as bright as a normal lamp and they will not come up to temperature.

As a metal halide lamp ages the operating voltage increases. The power supply (ballast) cannot support the increased voltage demand and the arc extinguishes. After cool down the lamp will light only to drop out again. Most likely this is happening in your machine. If you have ever seen a street light come on only to go out after several minutes, this is the same issue. You need to replace the UV lamps.

Gerard Fitzgerald
Engineer
TCS Technologies
 
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