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LUS120, 150 and 170

Adam Vreeke

Knows just enough to get in a lot of trouble..
I know, I know, another one of these posts. But I have yet to find the answers to my questions and to the specifics and machine I am using.

Currently running LUS120 on my 200-2513 EX configured with CMYK WW Cl Pr. As I sit here with my Primer bottle about to expire without ever printing with it, and about to spend another $375 just for it to be cleaned into the waste bin I have been thinking about the configuration of our machine and have gone down a rabbit hole. I do not use the primer or clear (we have a 2 head old model 2513 with clear I can run if I need to) so I am thinking of bringing this up to the old boss man and need to have answers to his eventual questions.

Can we run a Lm Lc W W setup with the 150 and / or 170?

We run all of our acrylic, magnets, coroplast and polystyrene through this machine, what is the better ink to run through with those materials in mind?

We can run acrylic through with the 120 without the need for an adhesion promoter, and ink doesn't chip when routering through. is the 150 or 170 capable of that as well?

If we do switch inks, can we flush the lines and be fine, or do we need to do a head swap?

I have heard that 170 inks create an absolute mess around the heads, is this easy to clean up or even true? I do deal with the caked on plastic that is known as LH100 with our older machines so I am comfortable scraping inks off in and around the heads.

Why is there such a price discrepancy between the 150 and 170?

Am I missing any other piece of the puzzle that I should consider?
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
There is no 6 color plus white only ink configuration. Only 6 color plus white and clear. You can do CMYKx2 WWWW however. In my opinion, you can do without the LC LM.

You can't use LUS-170 on that model unfortunately. It's not accepted by the firmware.

Your best option might be to stick with the LUS-120 and change the configuration to CMYKx2 Wx4 if you just want to get rid of the clear and primer.

You will want to flush the system using the white disc shaped filters that come with the machine out of the box and then replace all the primary filters (the cylindrical black ones). I'd say it's mandatory to change the primer sub tank and probably a good idea to change the other ones as well. Mimaki says you will need to change the heads out as well but that's only if you run into issues.

The LUS-170 is less expensive because it’s designed specifically for roll-to-roll printers, which typically print on flexible materials like vinyl. That kind of application doesn’t require the same complex or costly chemistry as LUS-150, which must adhere reliably to a much wider range of rigid substrates.
 
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Adam Vreeke

Knows just enough to get in a lot of trouble..
Thanks for the info as always!

Question, if you print out of 4 channels instead of 2, do you get a better more opaque layer of white? Or does it print the same, just printing out of 4 instead of 2?
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Thanks for the info as always!

Question, if you print out of 4 channels instead of 2, do you get a better more opaque layer of white? Or does it print the same, just printing out of 4 instead of 2?
Glad to help!

I don't believe so. I think you're get a similar opacity faster. That will be another benefit of getting rid of LC, LM, CL and PR. The print will overall be faster.
 
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