Need Help Mimaki 3042mkii - 11f System Halt

[JohnTom]

Got laid off during the start of covid and took the Mimaki printer as the severance package. After a stressful move things have been ok, until the start of this week.

Out of nowhere the printer showed SYSTEM HALT (6) 811: fw / sio read. Tried to scroll through the messages to see if there were more codes, but it was frozen. After a hard power off it came back showing SYSTEM HALT (1) 11f : PCB SLIDER.

If I startup holding F3 it will get me to the firmware upload page where is gives me 3 other codes of 108(HD Thermis[_ ]) 519(Negative P. Sensor) 617(Subtanksens [123456]) which I assume is related to it not being able to cycle.

It believe it is out of warranty, and as such I feel I'm having a hell of a time getting support on a machine that's just over 2 years old.

I've had a very helpful tech assit with providing steps to check things. We first tried updating the firmware, but that did nothing. Same 11f error on restart.

I then was told to check the cables to the PCB Slider board and the ribbons to the printhead. I visually inspected as well as disconnected and reconnected all cables to the Slider PCB. Verified the power supply is putting out 48volts all the way to the Slider PCB. Same error on restart.

Ive checked all fuses I could see and they all appear good. I am seeing a red led showing on the Slider PCB so it appears to have power.

I am wondering what the chances are its the optical cable. I don't have (havent been shown) a way to test it. It looked as though the cable angle was sharp going into the main board and was run under some bigger cables instead of on top. Starting it up with the cable unplugged makes no difference in the code. Other than that I have no other ideas. Cable is over 500 dollars and has to ship. SLIDER PCB is over 1000 and has to also ship.

Without having access to the Diagnostic Manual I am left going on whatever info I am being given over days - all the while my previously perfect printheads are turning into garbage because I can't run a cleaning cycle. Just really sucks. I can't believe I may have to part out a machine that is barely over 2 years old.

Would deeply appreciate any help or advice. Especially any way I could at least save the heads while all this is trying to be sorted. Anyway to read the prior error codes would also be great as I can't access the menu at all to do so.

Sincerely,
JohnTom

 

[hand851]

SYSTEM HALT (*)
11f : PCB SLIDER
No Slider T PCB
1. Turn on the machine power and check that the
slider T PCB LED13 lights up.
2. If not, turn off the power and remove the head FFC
(CN101 to CN108) from the slider PCB. (Be
careful that the FFC contact part does not touch the
PCB.)
Turn on the machine power again and check
whether LED13 lights up. If the light comes on
after removing the head FFC, AFTER POWER OFF connect the head
FFC in order, check if the cause of the FFC / head
is abnormal, and replace it.
3. If there is no change in the lighting of LED13
before and after removing the head FFC, check the
cable connection between the EPL3 main PCB
(CN105) and the slider T PCB (CN3).
4. Replace the Slider T PCB and UVLED Drive14
PCB with a new one at the same time.
(Refer to 3.3.2) (Refer to 3.5.2)
5. Replace the above FFC.
6. Replace the EPL3 main PCB with a new one.
(Refer to 3.3.1)

 

[JohnTom]

Hello and thank you very much for your help hand851!!

On the Slider Board I only show Led 11 being lit, Led 13 is off.

So I am at step 3. I am somewhat suspect of the optical cable - and it doesn't appear that there is a way to test it.

Would it make sense to try replacing this before both boards?

Sincerely,
JohnTom

 

[balstestrat]

There's ways to test optical cables. Simplest is just to unplug the other end when the device is running and see if you have light coming out.
Then you have testing devices for them.
Only thing is you should clean them if you unplug with a special cleaning device.

 

[JohnTom]

Ok - Just checked to see what I could see.

The optical cable goes into a metal box connecter clip on either end so I wasnt sure if you would be able to see anything.

In a dark room I checked with one side disconnected on one end then the other on startups and could not see any light emitted. Tried to also shine a bright light into the clip and see if I could see anything from both sides, but nothing was seen.

Assuming this way of testing should show some light, this may be indicating it is indeed the cable.

I will try changing this first and see what happens... Fingers crossed.

Sincerely,
JohnTom

 

[balstestrat]

It could be that there is some other reason why this test method is not working for this particular cable.
But assuming it's similar to network cables the light should be visible to see when it's running. But it's also possible that it only uses that for particular stuff like sending jobs or something so it may not be online all the time.
Someone else might know more about this.

 

[JohnTom]

As long as I should be able to see light, it makes some sense that since I'm not seeing anything that there could be an issue. I am guessing there must be some information that is expected to be sent that isnt being seen that triggers the 11f system halt.

I am also guessing that the cable assembly has an led light that could have failed if it isn't the optical cable itself thats bad. Very annoying the lignt and cable aren't two seperate parts, at least that way you would have a very clear indication of if it's failed or working.

 

[JohnTom]

Tried a new fibre optic cable, and that did not solve the problem. Ordering and Slider and UV light board to try next.

Does anyone know any tricks to get a copy of the log files off the machine when it will not boot? Desperately want to see what the first error messages were that may give a better clue as to what is going on / happened.

This is a really dumb design on Mimaki's part. How else are you supposed to figure out a problem!!

Sincerely,
JohnTom

 

[JohnTom]

Is there anyone here able to sell me a PCB Slider board for my machine and able to ship to Canada?

I am having no luck getting one from my supplier and my heads are likely going to be garbage soon if I don't get this fixed asap.

Thanks for any help.

Sincerely,
JohnTom

 

[JohnTom]

Update for anyone interested - installed the PCB Slider Board (finally recieved on Tuesday after waiting for over 2 weeks) and it fixed the issue.

Going through the log files I saw errors showing an overvolt issue. I have a feeling it was related to the earlier printhead issue I had with this machine that was covered under warranty. I think it may have weakened something on the slider board that finally failed over time. Not seeing any messages yet with the new board, but will be watching very closely to make sure it's not still a printhead problem.

Again - MIMAKI - SAVE A COPY OF THE LOG FILES ON THE SDCARD!! IT'S UNACCEPTABLE TO BE UNABLE TO ACCESS ANY DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION WHEN THE MACHINE WONT RUN!!

Biggest issue now is of course the primer printhead has clogged nozzles. If I had the parts in the first week I MAY have been fine, but sitting this long screwed me. Of course there seems to be no accountability for the extremely late part delivery or anything offered to help with the cost of supplies or parts to fix this.

Overall I am extremely disappointed with Mimaki and lack of both communication and delivery / parts availability.

Tried repeated nozzle soaks and head cleans, as well as running it with the uv lamp off to try flushing out the primer head. It has improved, but it is beyond infuriating consider it was PERFECT before this happened.

I found the make a PR-200 Primer Maintenance Fluid that may work better to clean it - but of course it is backordered and I will be lucky to see it in 2 to 3 weeks.

So yeah - anyone have any other ideas to try saving the primer printhead? Also, anyone know someone that repairs Mimaki boards? I would like to fix the old one so I have a backup in case this occurs again in the future. And finally, any good tutorials for printhead replacement? Looks like that will be the next repair I will need to do.

Thanks for reading and appreciate any help!

-JohnTom

 

[JohnTom]

Just adding a follow up:

Finally recieved and tried the PR200 maintenance fluid a week ago. Not really sure if it did a damn thing to be honest. Multiple soaks and even tried directly cleaning the head with it and saw no improvement over my prior test prints.

Out of complete desperation at this point I disregarded Mimaki's warning about touching the printheads and used washing fluid with a cleaning swab and applied light scrubbing and wiping to the primer printhead. Used a new swab for each pass and did it repeatedly. I alternated directions (back to front / front to back) and it appears to have recovered most of the nozzles.

TRY THE ABOVE INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK! ACCORDING TO MIMAKI, JUST LOOKING AT THE PRINTHEADS THE WRONG WAY WILL DAMAGE YOUR MACHINE.

Also, if anyone knows anywhere that does board repairs please let me know. Still looking for someone that can repair my bad slider board so I can have a backup available.

 

[QnQPrints]

Update for anyone interested - installed the PCB Slider Board (finally recieved on Tuesday after waiting for over 2 weeks) and it fixed the issue.

Going through the log files I saw errors showing an overvolt issue. I have a feeling it was related to the earlier printhead issue I had with this machine that was covered under warranty. I think it may have weakened something on the slider board that finally failed over time. Not seeing any messages yet with the new board, but will be watching very closely to make sure it's not still a printhead problem.

Again - MIMAKI - SAVE A COPY OF THE LOG FILES ON THE SDCARD!! IT'S UNACCEPTABLE TO BE UNABLE TO ACCESS ANY DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION WHEN THE MACHINE WONT RUN!!

Biggest issue now is of course the primer printhead has clogged nozzles. If I had the parts in the first week I MAY have been fine, but sitting this long screwed me. Of course there seems to be no accountability for the extremely late part delivery or anything offered to help with the cost of supplies or parts to fix this.

Overall I am extremely disappointed with Mimaki and lack of both communication and delivery / parts availability.

Tried repeated nozzle soaks and head cleans, as well as running it with the uv lamp off to try flushing out the primer head. It has improved, but it is beyond infuriating consider it was PERFECT before this happened.

I found the make a PR-200 Primer Maintenance Fluid that may work better to clean it - but of course it is backordered and I will be lucky to see it in 2 to 3 weeks.

So yeah - anyone have any other ideas to try saving the primer printhead? Also, anyone know someone that repairs Mimaki boards? I would like to fix the old one so I have a backup in case this occurs again in the future. And finally, any good tutorials for printhead replacement? Looks like that will be the next repair I will need to do.

Thanks for reading and appreciate any help!

-JohnTom

Having the same issue

 

[Tipgypsy]

Just adding a follow up:

Finally recieved and tried the PR200 maintenance fluid a week ago. Not really sure if it did a damn thing to be honest. Multiple soaks and even tried directly cleaning the head with it and saw no improvement over my prior test prints.

Out of complete desperation at this point I disregarded Mimaki's warning about touching the printheads and used washing fluid with a cleaning swab and applied light scrubbing and wiping to the primer printhead. Used a new swab for each pass and did it repeatedly. I alternated directions (back to front / front to back) and it appears to have recovered most of the nozzles.

TRY THE ABOVE INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK! ACCORDING TO MIMAKI, JUST LOOKING AT THE PRINTHEADS THE WRONG WAY WILL DAMAGE YOUR MACHINE.

Also, if anyone knows anywhere that does board repairs please let me know. Still looking for someone that can repair my bad slider board so I can have a backup available.

Most of the Manufacturers are like that - There is no way to tell how tech savy a printer owner is or who is running / maintaining the machines. People will sometimes take things apart, make adjustments, or handle components roughly without knowing or understanding what they are doing. Some people are very capable and knowledgable and some aren't - can cause additional issues beyond the original problems without intending to do so. You can also spend a huge amount of cash swapping out good parts. The longer you use and maintain your machine the more you will learn about keeping it up , what breaks, which parts to keep on hand and when to call a pro for backup - None of the machines are perfect you have problems, issues and down time with every one no matter who makes it. Ive been through 3 manufacturers and my personal preference is the Mimaki UJF series - Its a very robust printer and will chugg out reliable production 7 days a week with very little upkeep. Most of the equipment dealers offer a yearly Tech support subscription - It allows you to talk to or email their Mimaki service tech when you get an issue you need help on. It doesn't get you a site visit but its a life saver and it can keep you from buying parts and swapping things out till it starts working again. Runs around 1k a year depending on which company you deal with . I use IDS/ Innovative Digital . We buy / run older machines and it works well to have a tech you can call when you get stumped.

 

[Solventinkjet]

You can access the log files via a computer and the proper Mimaki software. Mimaki just doesn't give it to end users.

 

[Nate Malone]

I went through all of the similar steps and here is what I learned

-Replace the Slider T PCB and UVLED Drive14
PCB with a new one at the same time.

They request that you switch out both at the same time becuase "they cant determine which one is faulty, and either of them being faulty could cause a new one to be faulty if you don't replace both."
You can purchase both through a 3rd party supplier for about $800 which will save you $400-500.

I noticed finding LED 13 took me awhile because it wasnt lit so I'm attaching a photo of the location. Hope it helps

I replaced both of my boards and the machine worked great for three months. I hit the emergency stop yesterday and the machine came to a banging halt. Low and behold the same error came up 11f PCB Slider.
Keep in mind my new slider is 3 months old. I now have to replace both components again. - Dont use your emergency stop unless you know impact is imminent , it's not worth it, if it's going to potentially cost me $1200 every time I push it then I will just lift the cover or do whatever else I need to do. I know that data clear doesnt always work for me. I wish Mimaki would simply admit there is a problem with the design of these things. It's absurd that the E stop would fry 2 boards that are 3 months old. I am %100 certain this is an issue of causation not correlation.
Now my shop is going to have 3 PCB and UVLED boards for 1 machine - seems like there has got to be a way to repair these things for less then half of what they cost.