Mimaki CJV150 Help!

[YIbble'r]

Help! This machine is driving me nuts! I have a perfectly created cut file that prints and cuts spot on smaller (400mm) but when I print and cut it at a larger size (1100mm) the cut ends up way off. I have repeatedly done the print and cut alignment adjustment. I feel like it has something to do with the feed but I am not sure what/where and how to look for a solution, which I am sure has to be simple... right! Any ideas?

I also have an annoying issue with Rasterlink 6 - I recently upgrade my PC to a Surface Studio 2 which has a 28" screen - when I open Rasterlink it is tiny and to get around it, I have to decrease the screen resolution to make it readable - but then it makes everything else massive.... Surely there is a better way!

Any help would be wonderful.

 

[garyroy]

On a lot of print/cut machines you won't get accurate tracking when cutting.
Especially when the piece is removed, laminated, and then put back on the printer to be cut.
My Roland's are like that. Mediocre tracking at best. Decent results when printing and then cutting static cling. (no material removal between print/cut)
Most suggestions to start with are, clean the rubber feed rollers very well, or replace necessary, and clean the metal pinch rollers under the material.
Some even suggest running several pinch rollers on the material. We only run one on each side of the material.
Separate higher end roll cutters (Graphtecs) are the solution of most shops that do a lot of cutting.

 

[Solventinkjet]

The print cut alignment can be confusing on that model because it has two different settings based on if you're using crop marks or not. When you're using crop marks, it's called TP Offset so just make sure that's the option you're choosing when doing the adjustment.

Also the default is for only the edge pinch rollers to be down during cutting. Try setting them all down on medium pressure and see if that helps.

 

[Solventinkjet]

I just remembered as well, Mimaki sends a roll of Teflon tape with all of their machines. You can apply it to the platen between the vacuum holes and it will allow the material to slide better which should give more consistent feeding. You apply the strip along the length of the platen. just avoid the vacuum holes.

 

[Humble PM]

I also have an annoying issue with Rasterlink 6 - I recently upgrade my PC to a Surface Studio 2 which has a 28" screen - when I open Rasterlink it is tiny and to get around it, I have to decrease the screen resolution to make it readable - but then it makes everything else massive.... Surely there is a better way!

A cheap old second monitor to the side with a usbc to dvi/vga adaptor might do the trick.

Mimaki sends a roll of Teflon tape with all of their machines. You can apply it to the platen between the vacuum holes and it will allow the material to slide better which should give more consistent feeding.

I should get some for our old drytac laminator - paint has worn down and allthough smooth, is a slight point of resistance.