You gotta remove the tube first, the barbed fittings are threaded Luer Lock style for 3mm ID. The pump needs to be disassembled with the 2 black screws holding the pump bodies together. Then you remove the 3 larger Philips screws to split the pump bodies from the sheet metal panel. If they don't pull free, you can split the tube with a hobby knife and tug free. My fittings happen to be black, but they're identical in function and form of the clear fittings.
Just posting this here for those who might want to go the rebuild route. If you're running multiple printers with white ink, sometimes it's good to have tubing and pumps to rebuild on hand. Sometimes repairs aren't about money. If you have jobs waiting and an unexpected ink line rupture is going to put you down for a week, knowing how the mechanisms work and how to rebuild them can save your butt. In other cases, it makes keeping parts on hand easier. Pump tubing can be used in cap stations and other locations, and the stuff does get crushed over time. Heck, even the official Mimaki parts diagram shows the tubing and barbed fittings and their respective part numbers. It's just like any other maintenance. "Why solvent flush a printhead when a new one is only $4500?" Also, with people all over the world printing, some folks might not have access to the parts network most of us do. Or, if cash is tight, that's valid too.
Since we just added 2 more printers, we basically treat them like fleet parts. We also use the circulation system when experimenting with heavier pigments like aluminum to help keep it from settling too much and clogging the heads. Different pigments can be harder on the tubing, so they have to be replaced even more often.
