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Mimaki UJF3042HG
- Thread starter Vipul
- Start date
Solventinkjet
DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Make sure the antifreeze is flowing and not clogged. The antifreeze requires a mixture of distilled water. If anything other than distilled water was used, it could be clogged. Other than that, it may be shorting out. I would check the head cables for ink splatter and/or damage and replace as necessary.
Smoke_Jaguar
New Member
Done the coolant in 4 separate used UV flatbeds and they ALL had chunky residue in them. Make sure to flush a good liter or so of warm distilled water through the lines if you can. Just toss the water in the microwave and heat it up where you can still handle touching it. The heat helps quite a bit at cleaning the lines. If you get overheat codes before the printing even starts, might be a bad thermistor inside the printhead.
I mixed with distilled water as per the instructions still get the message after printing the balls or other items. I switch off the machine for 15 minutes and switch on and again same story after 50 - 60 balls. Should I remove the radiator and drain and clean it and then refill with new antifreeze?
Could the ambient temp. effect the performance of the machine? Maybe fit an AC?
Smoke_Jaguar
New Member
The radiators can absolutely become clogged and corroded, especially if incorrect coolant was used. Based on the age of that series, the coolant might just have simply gone bad over time. Probably good to flush the machines every couple of years.
Do you have any video or instructions on how to carry out the procedure of draining the radiator?
Smoke_Jaguar
New Member
Nope, best bet would be to find a threaded connection that's low in the system so gravity can do its thing. The older UJF's just use Luer lock syringe fittings, so you can get some syringes (I hit the local agriculture supply stores) to help push/pull coolant through the system to break up any potentially built-up gunk. Make sure to have a bucket handy to catch the old coolant of course, and lots of paper towels just in case. You can also find line clamping tools to pinch off the lines can come in handy. Or, just take a pair of hemostats and put some tubing over the tips to pad them and keep from damaging the lines. Let it drain by gravity first, then fill a syringe with warm to hot water and push/pull it back and forth while looking for bits of debris and such. The coolant will probably be orange or pink, I like to leave a low line open to drain while flushing from higher in the system once everything is flowing nicely. The process isn't terribly important, just flush out all the old junk and avoid adding things like cleaning agents and the like. Once everything is flushed and drained, fill from the fill ports on the left side of the machine. You can use the syringe to pull air out of the system when it is mostly full. Less air pockets is better, but it doesn't have to be perfect.
Smoke_Jaguar
New Member
Dozens of brands use the Gen4 Ricoh heads in their printers, and third party inks are great for the value, no real advantage to Mimaki's stuff over any other decent ink brand.
I have been informed that Marabu inks Germany sell compatible at half the price so was wondering if I should go for those without causing any damage to the machine!
Smoke_Jaguar
New Member
Nah, if the ink is compatible, you'll be fine. Marabu has been around for a while and its decent stuff.
Smoke_Jaguar
New Member
Best bet is to order the bags that go inside the cartridge bodies and just buy bulk or bottle ink, can look around at maybe Sign-In-China, got some for like $4US each to make cleaning carts with. Not sure how well solvent inks will work in a UV printer though.
intercrown
New Member
Check pump inside antifreeze liquid container.