Printing on Window Perf

[spmracing]

So, I just bought window pref for the first time.. I must say I am a little worried....

Do i just print it normally? What happens to the ink that normally would go where the holes are? Does it absorb into the backing?

Also, is it recommended to laminate it? If so, Can i just use like Oraguard 210 on a calendered window perf?

Im a noob!

 

[SlightlyChilled]

Let it fly

 

[spmracing]

Thank you for the heads up.. I plan on laying it then cutting it out with a strait edge!

 

[JBusch260]

You're over-thinking it!

The backer will absorb the ink in the perforations, yes.

I wouldn't recommend using 210 - if you're laminating perf you should use optically clear laminate. I use Oraguard 290GF. It's expensive, but it's nice stuff, and is truly optically clear. Our suppliers sell it in 5 yd increments...might be worth checking with yours and see.

In general I find perf prints very well, despite having half of the image missing. I'll usually print using a high quality setting on our Roland since it seems to lay down more ink and the density seems to improve.

One thing I will say though, if you're trying to print/laminate/cut on perf with crop marks, make sure your setup can read the marks before you print a bunch of graphics.

Good luck

+1 Great advice from Pat. Don't be afraid to run window perf through, that's how it is designed. Everything will be just fine, no worries. I print the stuff nearly every other day, the only problems I've ever had was some cheap stuff buckling. Get a solid brand, you'll be fine. And definitely consider his advice on optically clear laminate. I will second the Oraguard 290f. Well worth it!

Let us know how it goes for you.

 

[spmracing]

I'm only doing something about 24"x48", Is there a spray laminate or better way to laminate rather than buying a roll?

 

[JBusch260]

I've never sprayed window perf. I've always used the roll. It will seal the holes to keep dirt and whatever else out.

 

[petepaz]

this is an on going discussion here. lam perf or not to lam perf???
i will agree you definitely don't want to use 210 you need a cast, optically clear lam. the only thing i can add is my own experiences. i have only done about 3-4 window perf applications and the only one i didn't have to re-do is the one with out lam. all the others curled up on the edges of the windows one of them i fixed twice and finally talked the customer to going with solid vinyl.
not sure if it was an issue with the perf, the lam, the install or a mixture of all three.
good luck

 

[mopar691]

I find most of the ink that goes into the holes winds up either on my hands or somehow on the side of my face when installing. :ROFLMAO: Every stinking time.

 

[MrSalumi]

I would recommend laminating the perf in any application that would encounter rain. As everyone else here has said 290gf is the ticket. It's your best bet. BUT....

you can roll on clearshield liquid laminate with a regular thin foam roller (hardware store). Be sure to apply it lightly and let it dry completely before removing from the backing film. I used this method a lot before I bought a laminator.

Good luck!

 

[klingsdesigns]

How long do you have to wait till you laminate. Will the ink in the holes stick to the lam if you dont wait till it is fully cured?

 

[JBusch260]

I always try to print one day, laminate the next. Sometimes in a pinch on a rush job, I'll print, then laminate. Haven't had any issues really doing either one... that I'm aware of...

 

[MrSalumi]

If its solvent based ink at LEAST one day, if its latex based you can lam right away.. Basic off gassing time required otherwise you'll trap solvent in the printed vinyl and it will act really funny when installing and wont last as long.

 

[MR. Graphics]

smp, don't get worried, when the print comes off the printer it will be lighter looking than when applied to a window, the backing paper is white and give you an optical illusion making the whole print look lighter than it actually is. As for the laminate i have used 3m 8518 and avery 1360 both were clearer than opticaly clear from lamex in my side by side challenge.

 

[molina67]

Different issue with Perf

Okay so this is the second roll of perf I have tried printing on and I keep getting air pockets or bubbles while printing. Is this normal with Perf?

 

[molina67]

Yikes, no that's absolutely not normal.

Looks like the perf is lifting from the backing as it's printing? What kind of media and how old?

First thing I would do is tell your supplier to take that stuff back. Unless of course it's been sitting on your shelf for 2-3 years....but still.

You MAY experience a bit of buckling if heat is cranked too much, but from what I can see that's not what's happening here.

Thanks, I think it's the media itself. I have had another roll that did the same thing. As it prints it lifts off the backing before it hits the heat. The media is less than a year old and it's a generic film. Guess I'm going to have to find something a little better, any suggestions? Again thanks

 

[JBusch260]

Eesh, what kind of window perf are you using?

 

[mark in tx]

Looks like too much heat on the platens for it to do that.

I use Curvalam for laminating.

Installing perf without lam is fairly easy, but it is not that much harder to learn to install laminated perf correctly.

 

[molina67]

No problem. Have you tried turning the heat (almost) off on the pre-heater? When I've had issues with buckling this usually helps to a certain extent, you just have to make sure that print and post heat is high enough so the ink cures and you don't get any ink pooling. But I think either way that product is defective - too much silicone in the liner or not enough adhesive on the film. It shouldn't lift right off like that...ever.

I don't always print perf, but when I do..... lol.

I've printed on 3M cast perf ($$$$$) and tested out some off brand (1sign) as well as flexcon's perf ($$$) and they all do the trick. I personally wouldn't buy 3M cast perf again at $1400 a roll - it's overkill in my opinion. I would see what's readily available by your local (or regular) suppliers and try some out. Most will have sample/short rolls available for testing and or purchase. Besides the fact that there are different versions (50/50 ; 60/40 ; 80/20 etc) they are all essentially the same animal. Cast shrinks less, and can stretch a little, and some of the adhesive are more removable than others, some brands leave the adhesive behind etc... but you really have to test out in house and see what works best for you. Short term temporary, you can get away with just about any no-name stuff out there, but if you're telling your customer it's gonna stay up for a couple of years I'd dish out a bit more cash and get a brand name. (not 3m though, still overpriced in my opinion)

Thanks that was really helpful. I have a few suppliers that I use and will see what's out there. For right now we are just looking to do the windows in our shop. Again thanks for the info..