Proof is in the pudding!

[J Hill Designs]

OK so history:

I switched to a non-OEM inkset for my OCE CS6060 (aka seiko CP64, aka HP9000) - a few months later I started having really bad banding, overspray, nozzle clogs, etc...changed dampers, captops, pump tube, switched heads around, etc etc...

Finally decided to purge and try OEM again...emptied sub-tank of black by running the pump in reverse, refilled with OEM black, and made a 40" x 5" sqare of pure K to purge the lines...first print you see the remaining non-OEM ink getting used up, second print directly after it using same exact file, not ripped again, just resent, and black has IMMEDIATELY cleared up...

I hate paying twice as much as before, but daaaamn dont think I will be spending countless hours cleaning grunting getting all 'inky' anymore...back to OEM for me...

 

[MikeD]

thanks for posting your experience...I was just talking with a vendor about switching to non-OEM. We won't be doing that!

 

[d fleming]

Just outa curiosity, what third party ink were you using?

 

[genericname]

When you first switched to non-OEM, did you build a custom profile with that ink? Doesn't seem like a fair test unless saturation limits have been taken into account. It could be that the non-OEM ink just needed far less to get the same saturation, and using an OEM profile had it spit out way too much ink, leading to over-saturation and clogging, among other possible problems.

 

[Sticky Signs]

So how much did you really save?

 

[J Hill Designs]

fieldcenter - they were less than half price

hind sight i didnt save much because of the extra maintenance needed

 

[J Hill Designs]

still might check out lyson however

 

[d fleming]

Been using Lyson in my Seiko for quite some time. Better than OEM by far. Been using Nazdar inks for screen printing for over 30 years, best in the biz. JMO