S2 Kiss Cut and Die Cut in one pass

[SLShop]

Is there a way to use different blade strengths with GoSign in one pass, for example 50g kiss cut and then directly a 150g die cut 10mm offset? Unfortunately, I have not found a function for this.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

Need to setup a kiss cut and thru cut path separately or you can skip the kiss cut and use the cut line as a thru cut. You do it in gosign

 

[SLShop]

Is there no way to adjust the cutting depth in gosign?

 

[Notarealsignguy]

You have to set that all up on the plotter. That's the first thing you do after putting it together.

 

[Saturn]

I usually find it best to set pressure at the plotter, as it can change fast based on material and blade sharpness. You can't dial anything in if it's already locked into the cut file itself.

I have no experience with GoSign, but the only way I've been able to do what you describe, combining cuts of varying force, is to use FlexCut and a "regular" cut. In Illustrator you'd achieve this by using to properly named spot colors, and then calling them out in the RIP or cut server.

I too would kill for Summa to let users define more than one cut at a time. Using FlexCut forces some settings that aren't always desirable, and can't be changed the way a regular cut can. Maybe someday!

 

[balstestrat]

I usually find it best to set pressure at the plotter, as it can change fast based on material and blade sharpness. You can't dial anything in if it's already locked into the cut file itself.

I have no experience with GoSign, but the only way I've been able to do what you describe, combining cuts of varying force, is to use FlexCut and a "regular" cut. In Illustrator you'd achieve this by using to properly named spot colors, and then calling them out in the RIP or cut server.

I too would kill for Summa to let users define more than one cut at a time. Using FlexCut forces some settings that aren't always desirable, and can't be changed the way a regular cut can. Maybe someday!

From RIPs you can usually send the pressure as well and have multiple contours. I imagine it would work just like you want.

 

[SLShop]

It's a shame so I only have the option of cutting it in 2 passes or using the flex cut feature. BTW do you make die cut with flex cut or a thick cut directly?

 

[Saturn]

It's a shame so I only have the option of cutting it in 2 passes or using the flex cut feature. BTW do you make die cut with flex cut or a thick cut directly?

I personally make the die-cut directly with two cuts as a rule. The only time I use FlexCut is when I do someting like a "sticker sheet" where there are kiss cuts on the center and a through cut at the edge.

Even if not necessary, I feel like two cuts gives you a little more leeway with the settings, and results in cleaner cuts over the long term. If your blades are $1 each, it might not matter, as you can just change them every day.

 

[Saturn]

From RIPs you can usually send the pressure as well and have multiple contours. I imagine it would work just like you want.

View attachment 169886

That would work, if Summa had a way to set two unique pressure (etc) values on the cutter itself. Correct me if I'm wrong though! The only way I know on the S2 to get two different cuts in a single job with different pressures (editable on the fly at the cutter) is to use a "regular" cut and a FlexCut.

 

[SLShop]

I personally make the die-cut directly with two cuts as a rule. The only time I use FlexCut is when I do someting like a "sticker sheet" where there are kiss cuts on the center and a through cut at the edge.

Even if not necessary, I feel like two cuts gives you a little more leeway with the settings, and results in cleaner cuts over the long term. If your blades are $1 each, it might not matter, as you can just change them every day.

do you have a link for 1$ blades ? can only find 20$ blades for S2T

 

[Saturn]

do you have a link for 1$ blades ? can only find 20$ blades for S2T

I actually really like the 45° OEM tangential blades from Summa at *cough* $62 ea. (plus shipping @#$%.) They go up faster than inflation, which is a shame, cuz they do prevent me from suggesting Summa wholeheartedly to newbies anymore. I do 10's of thousands of die-cut stickers every month and often a blade will last 2+ months, but now and then you'll chip a couple fresh ones back to back and it can be pretty disheartening.

You can get DRAG blades off eBay for $1, and I think Graphtec cutters have lots of good cheap options.

I hate looking for alternative sources, but it's getting harder not to.

 

[SLShop]

So far I have only ever tried the 36 degrees original summa, the knives have always lasted for over half a year. I now have a cheap one for $10 and it has already worn out so much after a day that I have to work with more pressure on all the vinyls . I would like to Try out an original 45 degree knife but we also cut a lot of Oracal 751 and a lot of small, delicate things. Isn't a 45 degree knife more of a disadvantage? That bothers me a little about the T model because you can't just change the knife holder and start cutting straight away. You have to readjust the knife every time. On our D60 we have 2 knife holders, one at 45 degrees and one at 60 degrees for different vinyl mil btw original summa t blade cost about 30$ in eu shops

 

[Notarealsignguy]

I never noticed a difference using different blade angles in regular day to day cutting. Maybe it's more pronounced on really thick material like sandblast mask or motox vinyl/laminate?

 

[Boudica]

I never noticed a difference using different blade angles in regular day to day cutting. Maybe it's more pronounced on really thick material like sandblast mask or motox vinyl/laminate?

60 degree blades are great for really thick material. It's very rare that I will use a 60 degree blade, 99% of the time a 45 degree blade will do, but I've never needed to change the blade on the summa - the tangential blade does remarkably well no matter what the material is.

 

[Saturn]

I only do full die-cut stickers, and I (perhaps lazily) decided 45° was the best for that. The 36° can't go around super sharp turns as easily, and the stickers can show it. If all I did was circles and rectangles, the 36° would be a better choice. I don't think it makes quite as much a difference as I pretend it does, but hey, gotta trial and error and see what works for you! If 36° was all that was available, I'd make it work.

 

[Attila Nagy]

It's a shame so I only have the option of cutting it in 2 passes or using the flex cut feature. BTW do you make die cut with flex cut or a thick cut directly?

that is not true. can setup different pressure and speed for each kind of cuts in GoSign in one single job.
How about Selecting FlexCut for the for the Thru Cut. and on summa Cutter Control changing both Full and Flex pressure to high

 

[signbrad]

What exactly do people mean here when they say "die-cut?"
Are you actually cutting with real dies? Or has this term taken on a new meaning?

My brother is a tool & die maker. Dies are traditionally very expensive to build. I know Stouse uses dies to cut magnetic sheeting into shapes. And before plotters were invented, I bought vinyl die-cut letters. I even had a source for getting thermal dies that could be used to sandblast intricate designs into glass.

I can't imagine a sign shop with a die-cutting machine unless you are cutting out huge quantities of the same shape.
Has the term "die-cut" acquired a new meaning that has nothing to do with actual dies?

Brad in Kansas City

 

[Saturn]

Has the term "die-cut" acquired a new meaning that has nothing to do with actual dies?

Correct. It's being used to more describe the end result, rather than the process. I use it for anything that is cut all the way through the material, versus kiss cuts.

 

[Boudica]

What exactly do people mean here when they say "die-cut?"
Are you actually cutting with real dies? Or has this term taken on a new meaning?

My brother is a tool & die maker. Dies are traditionally very expensive to build. I know Stouse uses dies to cut magnetic sheeting into shapes. And before plotters were invented, I bought vinyl die-cut letters. I even had a source for getting thermal dies that could be used to sandblast intricate designs into glass.

I can't imagine a sign shop with a die-cutting machine unless you are cutting out huge quantities of the same shape.
Has the term "die-cut" acquired a new meaning that has nothing to do with actual dies?

Brad in Kansas City

I think of die cut meaning a cast metal for cutting a specific shape over and over. Otherwise it should be called contour cut.
That Said... As I learn this trade, I also learn that very few truly understand the terminology they use, and I must ask a lot of questions to understand what they really mean. Once that is done... I might try to give them the terminology they should use... Or just absorb their words to better understand the future ignorance I will encounter. Chalk it up to experience dealing with customers. They try, so I'll try too... I guess.