Hos do most of you go about making shadows? Using the interactive shadow tool produces undesirable bitmap images and don't seem to be vinyl suitable. So, do you simply copy the object and offset it a small amount or is there an alternate method? The way I've done it so far is to copy the object, send it behind the source object, recolor it as required and then trim away the copied object with the source object. I know other programs do this much faster and more efficiently, but this is the software I have right now. Any comments? Thanks a lot!
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Shadows
- Thread starter ChiknNutz
- Start date
geb
New Member
I'm just getting started with Corel myself, and before sign tools 3 that was how I did it. I was basically just testing the feature as I have signlab and the shadow module so that works good for me. I see from your posts you use Co-Cut. The sign tools has some pretty good shadow features. If you want I'd be happy to show some of the shadow features this coming week. I don't have that software on this computer.
idsign
New Member
Corel - Extrudes and Drop Shadows
Chris,
I labored at making drop shadows look good in Corel 4 and 7 (7 is better but not as good as what follows).
I still use Corel today for many things that Corel frankly does as well or better than any other vector art program (Illustrator, Freehand, Serif others).
Finally in 2000 after 6 years in the sign business, I dropped $400 (now$500) for Vinyl Master Pro and the speed and precision to make drop shadows and other type effects - compared to Corel - was and is miraculous.
I just finished a quick test to support this post - creating this sample below in Corel 7 took 3 minutes and 35 seconds.
The same type with drop shadow - including typing the text and clicking on the selected font - 19 seconds. Easily a 10 fold savings of time and a 100 fold savings of frustration.
Chris, what I am not saying is dump Corel, but when you can afford to get a SIGN software program that designs and cuts sign oriented graphics with a few mouse clicks, don't hesitate to buy because I believe it will pay for itself in time savings and increased profits - and as a father of 3, you need all the extra time you can get, right?
Vinyl Master Pro has reduced my design time by 2/3 (conservative estimate) and I bet anyone using Flexi, Signlab, Omega or other sign package software will heap praises on their programs, too.
In otherwords, the time savings paid for my new software in less than 6 months.
For me it was a decision that I could no longer afford to use Corel alone to create the vectors to send to the cutter. I needed some real sign software.
Thanks Shaun and VMP. (plug, plug, plug)
Barry
note, that with Corel, to create the sample below, I had to first select my contours
extrude the contour
weld the contour and extrude
and edit some nodes.
With VMP, in one window, I adjusted the contours, pulled on the "handles" to adjust the perspective and depth and hit the accept button. If anyone can do that faster in any sign program, I would like to hear about it. Probably if the program offers pre-sets of effects, right?
Chris,
I labored at making drop shadows look good in Corel 4 and 7 (7 is better but not as good as what follows).
I still use Corel today for many things that Corel frankly does as well or better than any other vector art program (Illustrator, Freehand, Serif others).
Finally in 2000 after 6 years in the sign business, I dropped $400 (now$500) for Vinyl Master Pro and the speed and precision to make drop shadows and other type effects - compared to Corel - was and is miraculous.
I just finished a quick test to support this post - creating this sample below in Corel 7 took 3 minutes and 35 seconds.
The same type with drop shadow - including typing the text and clicking on the selected font - 19 seconds. Easily a 10 fold savings of time and a 100 fold savings of frustration.
Chris, what I am not saying is dump Corel, but when you can afford to get a SIGN software program that designs and cuts sign oriented graphics with a few mouse clicks, don't hesitate to buy because I believe it will pay for itself in time savings and increased profits - and as a father of 3, you need all the extra time you can get, right?
Vinyl Master Pro has reduced my design time by 2/3 (conservative estimate) and I bet anyone using Flexi, Signlab, Omega or other sign package software will heap praises on their programs, too.
In otherwords, the time savings paid for my new software in less than 6 months.
For me it was a decision that I could no longer afford to use Corel alone to create the vectors to send to the cutter. I needed some real sign software.
Thanks Shaun and VMP. (plug, plug, plug)
Barry
note, that with Corel, to create the sample below, I had to first select my contours
extrude the contour
weld the contour and extrude
and edit some nodes.
With VMP, in one window, I adjusted the contours, pulled on the "handles" to adjust the perspective and depth and hit the accept button. If anyone can do that faster in any sign program, I would like to hear about it. Probably if the program offers pre-sets of effects, right?
Attachments
theres always the old trick of thatching. Probly only good on large scale stuff. Create two long rectangles and put them on opposite 45 degree angles. copy them time and time again over each other moving the two rectangles further apart each time. Finish off with an outside contour of the object you shadowed, and use that vector to trim the edges of the shadow.
Shadows in CorelDRAW: Some Step-by-Steps
There is one additional step I usually add...
ADDING A SLIGHT OVERLAP
I usually prefer not to have perfectly butting colors (very difficult to align just right, right?). So, if I want the colors to overlap a bit, I do a thin INNER CONTOUR of the source object, break this apart from the source object and use THAT to trim the "shadow" object.
ADDING A GAP
OTOH, if I want a small gap between the source and the shadow, then I do a thin OUTER CONTOUR of the source, break it apart from the source, and use THAT to trim the "shadow" object.
EXTRUDED DROP SHADOWS
When doing EXTRUDED drop shadows in CorelDRAW, it is necessary to:
2. "Break apart" the extruded object from the source object
3. Ungroup the extrude (it'll be a group of objects, usually)
4. Marquee-select all the extrude objects (IMPORTANT: after marqee-selecting, you'll have selected the source object, too, hold down "shift" and DESELECT the source object and any other objects not part of the extrude)
5. WELD the separate extrude objects together
6. Use the source object to TRIM the just-welded extrude object
{added by edit: If you are doing the outline/extrude thing, then I would leave it solid behind the original object, which would end up being two layers of vinyl, the original object being placed completely on the contour/extrude color.}
This also takes only moments, once you are used to the process. My main problem with CorelDRAW is adding a contour outline to grunge fonts...usually get mile-long spikes in that case, but they are usually not too difficult to edit out.
CorelDRAW was originally designed for preparing digital files to be submitted to a professional printer...so, yes, the earlier versions (particularly 4 and under) were a real pain for preparing files for vinyl cutting...it could be done...but what a pain...there was no trim tool in v.4...auuughhh! I had to hand edit the shadow using the source as a guide....hours and hours sometimes!
Corel 12...woo hoo!...it's great for printed materials and signage--I got mine new for $350 and it comes with a good trace program and photo-editing software, and even a simple animation program.
Cheers,
--William Bass
This is precisely how I'd do it--it takes only moments to do.GraphiXtreme said:
There is one additional step I usually add...
ADDING A SLIGHT OVERLAP
I usually prefer not to have perfectly butting colors (very difficult to align just right, right?). So, if I want the colors to overlap a bit, I do a thin INNER CONTOUR of the source object, break this apart from the source object and use THAT to trim the "shadow" object.
ADDING A GAP
OTOH, if I want a small gap between the source and the shadow, then I do a thin OUTER CONTOUR of the source, break it apart from the source, and use THAT to trim the "shadow" object.
EXTRUDED DROP SHADOWS
When doing EXTRUDED drop shadows in CorelDRAW, it is necessary to:
*NOTE*
If you want an extrude and an outline of the same color, then do the outline of the source first via CONTOUR. Break the contour object apart from the source and then perform these steps using the contour object as the source.
1. Add the extrude to the object and get it like you want.If you want an extrude and an outline of the same color, then do the outline of the source first via CONTOUR. Break the contour object apart from the source and then perform these steps using the contour object as the source.
2. "Break apart" the extruded object from the source object
3. Ungroup the extrude (it'll be a group of objects, usually)
4. Marquee-select all the extrude objects (IMPORTANT: after marqee-selecting, you'll have selected the source object, too, hold down "shift" and DESELECT the source object and any other objects not part of the extrude)
5. WELD the separate extrude objects together
6. Use the source object to TRIM the just-welded extrude object
If you are combining an outline/extrude, then WELD the source object (the contour outline) and the extrude object INSTEAD of step six.
7. Add an overlap or gap (to desired thickness) per above instructions concerning doing that.
{added by edit: If you are doing the outline/extrude thing, then I would leave it solid behind the original object, which would end up being two layers of vinyl, the original object being placed completely on the contour/extrude color.}
All the above are necessary ONLY for setting up for vinyl cutting...completely uneeded if designing for print, which would require other steps (that are even easier).
If any of this seems unclear, just let me know, I'd be glad to try to clarify (possibly with pics, too).
This also takes only moments, once you are used to the process. My main problem with CorelDRAW is adding a contour outline to grunge fonts...usually get mile-long spikes in that case, but they are usually not too difficult to edit out.
CorelDRAW was originally designed for preparing digital files to be submitted to a professional printer...so, yes, the earlier versions (particularly 4 and under) were a real pain for preparing files for vinyl cutting...it could be done...but what a pain...there was no trim tool in v.4...auuughhh! I had to hand edit the shadow using the source as a guide....hours and hours sometimes!
Corel 12...woo hoo!...it's great for printed materials and signage--I got mine new for $350 and it comes with a good trace program and photo-editing software, and even a simple animation program.
Cheers,
--William Bass
Warning!!!
Okay,
So I did an extruded shadow in Corel 12 (mainly to see how long it takes).
It took a little over 4 minutes.
The warning?
After you've made the extrude and welded it to the contoured outline, you need to go into wireframe view...some little snaggies tend to hang around inside the contour...these will translate into random cuts in your vinyl, which will not be too noticeable until shrinkage begins...then...ugh!
Anyway...select the contour/extrude object...break it apart one more time (this will make the random lines separate from the object) and then weld together, which will basically make the random lines go away (right after breaking apart, with everything still selected, go into the "Arrange" menu to the "Shaping" option to the "Weld" option). Do all this in wireframe view to ensure that there are no remaining problems in the object.
The big name sign programs probably DON'T have issues like these...hey, I'm sure they are better at certain things like this...but since you and I already got Corel12...might as well use it good, right?
Okay,
So I did an extruded shadow in Corel 12 (mainly to see how long it takes).
It took a little over 4 minutes.
The warning?
After you've made the extrude and welded it to the contoured outline, you need to go into wireframe view...some little snaggies tend to hang around inside the contour...these will translate into random cuts in your vinyl, which will not be too noticeable until shrinkage begins...then...ugh!
Anyway...select the contour/extrude object...break it apart one more time (this will make the random lines separate from the object) and then weld together, which will basically make the random lines go away (right after breaking apart, with everything still selected, go into the "Arrange" menu to the "Shaping" option to the "Weld" option). Do all this in wireframe view to ensure that there are no remaining problems in the object.
The big name sign programs probably DON'T have issues like these...hey, I'm sure they are better at certain things like this...but since you and I already got Corel12...might as well use it good, right?
