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Sprinter Van Recesses...

EmpireGFX.com

New Member
I have heard many different preferences amongst shops on how to handle the deep recesses on Sprinter vans. We have an install coming up this weekend and I need to decide how we're going to attempt to tackle it. I have heard that using magnets to cover the recesses helps with installation but it will damage the paint over time. I have also heard of people bridging it and cutting it when installing. What do you guys do when it comes to tackling these deep recesses when installing? Thanks in advance for the help guys!
 

Circleville Signs

New Member
First - use 380, not 180.

Second - TAKE YOUR TIME.

Personally, I've never used the magnet technique because I've seen what it does underneath (ugh).

With 380, you can stretch it pretty good and with the right amount of heat it shoudl work just fine...


Gary
 

tanneji

New Member
company i used to work for just trimmed out the vinyl completely from them. looked like crap so i wouldnt recommend it!
 

EmpireGFX.com

New Member
Thanks for the advice guys.. I find it pretty funny how easy they make it look on the 3M videos. Either way.. it's given me some stuff to think about. Does anyone have any experience with these deep channels using the Oracal 3551 RA Wrap Media? I have some in stock at the shop and would rather use it over ordering a new roll of media and laminate. I'll be sure to post some pics of the finished product after the install on Saturday.
 

ZsVinylInc

New Member
I would advise using 380 over anything else. I had a sample roll at one time and used it on a vehicle that had some deep channels in it along the bed. It was amazing how well it worked...Make sure to check the specs as to how hot to heat it. Get yourself a good inferred temperature reader and go to town...take your time.

Big Z.
 

EmpireGFX.com

New Member
Is the 3M 380 really that much better than the Oracal or Arlon products? I realize the 3551 RA is a performance calendared vinyl but what about the Oracal 3951 RA or the Arlon 6000XRP? Any thoughts?
 

ZsVinylInc

New Member
Is the 3M 380 really that much better than the Oracal or Arlon products? I realize the 3551 RA is a performance calendared vinyl but what about the Oracal 3951 RA or the Arlon 6000XRP? Any thoughts?

I would never ever use Arlon on a vehicle....but that is my personal preference.....Yes for the application in which you are asking for advice on the proper film there is nothing better then 3M IJ380.
 

EmpireGFX.com

New Member
Is this an example of cutting the recesses?
 

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Prism1

New Member
Are you planning on letting those prints "Gas out" for 24 hrs before laminating??

Done a few with 3M 380, and it works good. I would still use a little primer in the radius's. I know they are expensive, but IF you are gonna "Roll in" with 380, you Need the 3M tools. If you use 380, you gotta use the Lam that goes with it too.

Anything else WILL lift out of the corners...Trust me.

Cutting the channels is a clean way to go too. Make Nice clean cuts and it looks good.

WHAT year van are you doing?? One recess or Multiple??
 

EmpireGFX.com

New Member
Prism1... I'm not sure of the year but here's the proof he signed off on for reference. It's an old DHL truck and was surprisingly in good condition without any graphics fading on the paint, etc.

attachment.php
 

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ZsVinylInc

New Member
Are you planning on letting those prints "Gas out" for 24 hrs before laminating??

Done a few with 3M 380, and it works good. I would still use a little primer in the radius's. I know they are expensive, but IF you are gonna "Roll in" with 380, you Need the 3M tools. If you use 380, you gotta use the Lam that goes with it too.

Anything else WILL lift out of the corners...Trust me.

Cutting the channels is a clean way to go too. Make Nice clean cuts and it looks good.

WHAT year van are you doing?? One recess or Multiple??

+1 for some additional primer in the radius areas and using matching lam. I never used any of the rollers because there was not a enough time for my supplier to get them to me and as Prism1 states they are expensive....I actually took a really soft cotton cloth that had no seams or anything on it stuck my finger in it and used it to carefully work the vinyl down in.....It actually worked kinda good in a pinch. I would suggest when you take off the first 6-12" of the roll save it and do some testing before start slapping panels on.
 

ReedAerospace

New Member
I met a guy who told me he had thin aluminum bent into channels and fit it into the recess with 2 sided tape and put the vinyl over it. I don't know what he did in the corners . Maybe you could cut and bend it . I never saw it in person.

I worked for Freightliner for 10 years and used to cut out the panels to install windows and always wondered if you got a window weatherstrip for the windows and split it and glued it in with windshield urethane it might be enough to fill in the recess.


Kendall
 

EmpireGFX.com

New Member
For sprinters - 3M 380cv3 + 8580 lam , 180's been great over the years, I even routed a template out of gator foam to sink into the channels but after 380 I wont go back.
heres a product bulletin:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?GGGGGi3nzS7g9lhIblaS14hjUj3eUS3nwjHGUjHGUGGGGGG--

So you actually filled the recesses with foam huh? How did that hold up? I've also read that you can use reflective to bridge the recess and it holds up to wear, etc. Anyone else used this method?
 

azcolor

New Member
Filling the recesses is just asking for trouble in most cases. Over time no matter what you use it will begin to deteriorate and look awful. Plus, doing this changes the natural body lines of the vehicle and in my opinion it is an amateur move. I have a few photos in my shop of these types of vehicles and show them to Sprinter prospects informing them that we will not need to do this. 3M 380 is by far your best option. With a bit of practice you will not need to resort to filling the recesses with anything but 3M vinyl and talent.
 
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