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Need Help Summa OPOS Calibration Slot Machine

VCE INDUSTRIES

New Member
There’s got to be something I’m missing or doing wrong here…

I just bought a new Summa S One D75… and I can’t quite get the OPOS Calibration dialed in. How do I manually input the offset dx / dy values? I can’t seem to find instructions anywhere on how to manually make corrections to those values- neither at the panel nor in Summa Cutter Control.

When I run the automated OPOS Calibration at the panel, it’s like spinning a slot machine. Each time I do it, it finds a different value than the last. I can’t seem to get it actually dialed in as tight as I’d like it. I’ve been able to get more accurate results on old Print/Cut machines simply due to manual input adjustments. I have a hard time believing Summa doesn’t offer the ability to make my own adjustments!

Even when printing a large black patch and then just running back-to-back OPOS calibrations without even removing the media or anything- I get different values each time!! Feeling like I wasted money here and was oversold on Summa accuracy superiority! This is no better (often worse) than what I can do on a cheap or outdated Print/Cut combo from Roland or Mimaki!

Any help would be hugely appreciated! I feel like there HAS to be something I’m missing!

(The pictures attached are literally back-to-back all on the same media - I tried to make a quick little collage to keep it simple)

Maybe my sensor is faulty?? Either way I’m baffled at the concept of not being able to easily (or even at all) manually adjust these values! And these margins seem.... wider than the Summa precision I was sold on...
 

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balstestrat

Problem Solver
Do you understand how small that ~0.02mm difference is? It's basically marginal error and you bought the base model as well. Absolutely nothing wrong with that. Your files should have 1-2mm bleed always to compensate for small errors.

0.02 millimeters = 0.00078 inches

Lets take a different route. What are you using to print?
 

Saturn

Your Ad Here!
You don't mention anything about the actual cutting results or how they look.

I spiral over little things as well, but I don't think this is stage to do it.

I don't think your machine is faulty. If you're getting wildly bad cuts, that's when you start digging deeper. There's so many variables, I wouldn't let this make you lose sleep.
 

VCE INDUSTRIES

New Member
Do you understand how small that ~0.02mm difference is? It's basically marginal error and you bought the base model as well. Absolutely nothing wrong with that. Your files should have 1-2mm bleed always to compensate for small errors.

0.02 millimeters = 0.00078 inches

Lets take a different route. What are you using to print?
Yeah- I understand that I’m chasing perfection here. The thing is, this machine clearly seems to be capable of it- as it holds the same offset very consistently. My frustration is that it *seems* the only way to calibrate it is via an automatic method. I am certain I could achieve what I’m looking for if I have the ability to manually input values.

Also, between these calibrations, some of those jumps are like 0.06mm. The fact I just have to keep rolling the dice till I land on the right x or y value just to have the next one bump that correct value away is so annoying. I should be able to bump them one at a time. In fact, as it stands currently, I was able to get more precise and accurate cuts on my old VG540 than this thing due to being able to manually calibrate the offsets. The only limitation I see here is being locked out of editing those values in the firmware

I know this is the “base model” - but it’s advertised as the same accuracy as the S3. And yeah my jobs have bleeds, but my output is very specific, and I’ve been able to achieve the results I’m looking for on older, “less capable” equipment.

Printing with a “base model” as well, CJV200
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
If that's what you really wish, I think you can change the values in Cutter Control in service mode.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

VCE INDUSTRIES

New Member
You don't mention anything about the actual cutting results or how they look.

I spiral over little things as well, but I don't think this is stage to do it.

I don't think your machine is faulty. If you're getting wildly bad cuts, that's when you start digging deeper. There's so many variables, I wouldn't let this make you lose sleep.
Thank you, this is a very thoughtful response to me certainly spiraling about this lol. It’s far from the only issue I’m working through right now but it feels like the only one I don’t have the capability to solve- due only to a firmware limitation that I’ve never seen restricted on any other device I’ve owned.

I am chasing perfection, the cutting results are less than ideal- I’d say most people would definitely consider them within the “margin of error” but I have gotten the results I’m after- so I know they’re achievable. I can share some pics tomorrow.

I’m working in super tight tolerances and I was told this thing would far outperform the old VG540 that I’ve cut my teeth on. And it just ain’t.
 
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