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Need Help UCJV300-160 Constant LC Ink Overflow Error (Replaced Subtank & Valve - Still Failing)

joaoxx

New Member
I have run into this incredibly frustrating issue on 2 or 3 different Mimaki UCJV300-160s now, and I cannot seem to nail down a definitive fix. Sometimes the issue just magically disappears, but on this current machine, it’s hitting hard.

It always starts with Positive Pressure errors, which quickly cascade into or in combination with a persistent Ink Overflow error. On this latest machine (configured as CMYKLmLcWW), it is strictly throwing the Overflow error on Light Cyan now (It also had a Positive P. Notenough but after the new subtank it seems to be gone).

I have checked absolutely everywhere I can think of, and I'm coming up empty:

-Connections & Leaks: Double-checked everything. No visible leaks anywhere in the lines or junctions.
-Valves: Tested the supply valves at the back. There is zero leakage from them when they aren't activated. Ink flows at a perfectly normal rate and reaches the sub-tank at a good pace. I even replaced the LC supply valve just in case ... no change.
-Sub-tank: Replaced the second sub-tank entirely with a brand-new one. The issue persisted. Subtank sensors are working good.
-Lines & Captop: Flushed the line manually with a syringe to ensure zero blockages and to check for micro-cracks in the lines for air, performed an air purge, and the cap-top is completely brand new.
-Ink Source: Checked the bottle springs and connectors to ensure it's seating and sealing properly and not drawing air from the bulk system.

Despite a brand-new sub-tank, brand-new valve, new cap-top, and clear lines, it still constantly triggers the LC overflow.
Since these machines rely heavily on complex digital pressure sensors and vacuum/pressure pumps to manage the sub-tank levels, I'm starting to wonder if I'm looking at a mechanical ink-delivery issue or if its a electronic/sensor failure.

For those who service these UCJV units regularly, What are the other known failure points or diagnostic steps for troubleshooting chronic single-channel overflow errors when all the physical hardware has already been swapped?

Just to add one crucial detail on the behavior: the machine doesn’t throw the error immediately upon boot-up. It initializes fine, but after doing 2 to 3 test prints or running 2 cleanings, the error triggers. No matter what I do, it always comes back after the head starts moving or drawing ink. Furthermore, when it actually does manage to print before the error hits, the Light Cyan nozzle check is always half missing.
 
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Smoke_Jaguar

Man who touches printers inappropriately.
Your solenoid that controls the valve is probably sticking.

Pull the pin, clean the solenoid bore out and make sure there's no sticky ink residue inside it. Next take the pin, clean it to the nice fancy chrome polish it should be. I sometimes add a drop of thin oil like 3-in-1 or even motor oil to it and spread it around. You just want a light coating. You can also lubricate the bore with a cotton swab or similar. You're not trying to paint the thing, just want a thin film on the surface can slide smoothly without a ton of excess goo to attract dust. Nudge the solenoid and see how it rebounds, it should bounce back all the way closed. Sticking valves can stay open more than halfway as the valve springs are not very strong.
 
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dercar

New Member
Hi buddy.I had exactly the same problem. It's incredibly hard to believe, but the problem lies in the micro-damage of the hose in the main line. The symptoms are logical. The damage tends to activate at the moment when the head is moving. At some point, the tire hits a bend.
And the crack opens. This is a completely minuscule hole. It's possible that you won't even find a single drop leaking out. But it is enough for air to enter and Depressurization to occur. You can test it like this: you move your head very slowly when the car is turned off. And you're watching the subtank. At some point, it will start to fill up. Bottom line: we will have to change the channel in the highway.
 
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Smoke_Jaguar

Man who touches printers inappropriately.
Yup, air in the line means the ink in the lines can bleed into the subtank slowly. Can test for this by leaving the printer on for a while and making sure the subtank is full [#TEST>Sensor>Subtank # and it should read --- HI ---], then disconnect the line from the ink valve. If you get an overflow error, it means the line is holding and that opening it to air has let the volume of ink into the subtank. If there is no change in ink level, means the line is already drained and air is getting in.
 

joaoxx

New Member
Hi buddy.I had exactly the same problem. It's incredibly hard to believe, but the problem lies in the micro-damage of the hose in the main line. The symptoms are logical. The damage tends to activate at the moment when the head is moving. At some point, the tire hits a bend.
And the crack opens. This is a completely minuscule hole. It's possible that you won't even find a single drop leaking out. But it is enough for air to enter and Depressurization to occur. You can test it like this: you move your head very slowly when the car is turned off. And you're watching the subtank. At some point, it will start to fill up. Bottom line: we will have to change the channel in the highway.
Your solenoid that controls the valve is probably sticking.

Pull the pin, clean the solenoid bore out and make sure there's no sticky ink residue inside it. Next take the pin, clean it to the nice fancy chrome polish it should be. I sometimes add a drop of thin oil like 3-in-1 or even motor oil to it and spread it around. You just want a light coating. You can also lubricate the bore with a cotton swab or similar. You're not trying to paint the thing, just want a thin film on the surface can slide smoothly without a ton of excess goo to attract dust. Nudge the solenoid and see how it rebounds, it should bounce back all the way closed. Sticking valves can stay open more than halfway as the valve springs are not very strong.

Thank you both, ill look out for these two problems next time I am with the machine.
 

PrintTech$

New Member
Couple ideas, Check the little blue rubber o-rings (F seals) between the ink connectors on the back under the ink bottles aren't damaged. Those rubber o-rings are directional as well based on the ink flow direction. I have also found the Clips can break, and the rubber if showing a line in the rubber or a pinch is defective, replace them. You should hear them clip together. You also have those same connections on the head side, I believe. I would check all of those connections, from the bottles to the head.
 
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