• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

UJF 6042 MKi blowing out X motors

btxmedia

New Member
This is the second time my 6042 has fried it's X motor. Last time was about 2 months ago. It starts out as giving random X CURRENT errors after a job is done as it goes to park the carriage at the origin. Never during a job. This motor gave the error 2 times before then burning out.

Any ideas what it could be?

The motor connects to the mainboard on CN14, encoder is on CN15. None of the wires or connectors look bad. If the MOSFET bridge on the mainboard that pulses the motors were stuck or bad it would never work. The chances of it randomly sticking after all this time are low.

Power supply voltages are in range on both power supplies for the +35v lines. But I think it's only the main supply that powers the X motor anyway.

I am going to clean and oil the side rails, and also clean out all the grease on the linear bedscrew the X motor drives. Then relube it with Mobilux EP1. My thinking is as the X motor rehomes the carriage it's either hitting a tough spot or getting some resistance near the end deceleration, which is either causing it to overdrive the motor or make regenerative power. Hence the X CURRENT error only on that spot.

Additionally, I may move the origin down the bed 3 inches to prevent the carriage from having to travel on that part of the rail if there is a rough spot. Wouldn't prevent the hard deceleration though.

Firmware is 1.9, looks like ChatGPT claims v 2.4 fixed a deceleration issue so maybe this was a known bug. Of course Mimaki in their infinite wisdom does let us mere mortals have access to such things like service manuals for their unsupported models so I'll stay at 1.9.

I have another spare motor, power supply, and mainboard ordered in any case. My plan is after cleaning put a new motor in and jumper the cables to a voltmeter and just leave it running to see what voltage happens. Motor is rated at 24V so anything appearing on the lines over gives a clue. If that fails again all I can think is change the mainboard/power supply.
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Here's a better way to test the motor ICs. Just to rule it out in case they can be malfunctioning in a way that is damaging the motors. Also, I looked through the firmware history and there aren't any motor fixes mentioned so GPT might be confused.

Test.jpg
 

btxmedia

New Member
Nice thank you very much. The 6042/3042 is not exactly as pictured but I found the relevant portion.

I'm testing the 2 mainboards I have but the resistance values are nowhere close to 10K ohms. I'm getting 500-800K ohms on all 8 one each board. All other parts look good visually. I will attempt to check them in diode mode, perhaps that's what Mimaki was wanting.
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Nice thank you very much. The 6042/3042 is not exactly as pictured but I found the relevant portion.

I'm testing the 2 mainboards I have but the resistance values are nowhere close to 10K ohms. I'm getting 500-800K ohms on all 8 one each board. All other parts look good visually. I will attempt to check them in diode mode, perhaps that's what Mimaki was wanting.
Yeah, they've changed the boards a lot through the years. This machine isn't my specialty but maybe Smoke_Jaguar has some insights. He's the expert.
 

btxmedia

New Member
They are irfz44n MOSFETS, and in diode mode all 8 give a healthy 0.53V. So I think they are ok. Unless I can find some more tests I am going to assume the driver chips are good.
Smoke_Jaguar will likely have a DIY arduino powered motor controller he hacked for 5% faster printing or something.
 

btxmedia

New Member
I tested them for Gate Source leakage and all 8 checked out consistently, so I think they are good. Will proceed with deep cleaning the rails/screw and swapping motor.
 

btxmedia

New Member
I know when I'm not wanted. =P
You're always welcome!

In theory you could disassemble the firmware. The take an educated guess where the alarm function is by looking for the ASCII message codes or the 401/404 code placeholder. Then see what reference value for voltage it's checking against before jumping to the alarm, to at least get a sense of what value triggers it. The motor is rated at 24V but it's using 35V so it's not pulsing more than 70% of the voltage. It shouldn't ever pulse more (I would assume) unless that motor is going bad, or the MOSFET is randomly sticking, or there is something blocking the rails. Just spitballing.
 
Top