What could be causing this type of dropout? Before everybody gets on here and says change print head, I would like to try every option I can before I drop a grand on a print head....As far as background info...the machine is 10 years old and I've never replaced a damper or print head. I have changed a few cap tops , but its been a year or two. I know I've got my moneys worth outta these heads and they are probably on their last leg, but I going to hang on as long as I can. Any ideas? If I do change dampers, Is there any step by step instructions...I have worked on it myself many times (scan motor, several captops, cartridge cables, encoder stripes, etc.) so I'm capable of doing it.
-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
versacamm sp300v dropout question
- Thread starter jason91
- Start date
Jester1167
Premium Subscriber
If you do a nozzle test then a medium head cleaning and the next nozzle test is worse, it's probably a damper. If it gets better after a head cleaning it is probably cap tops. If it stays the same over time it could be the head or cabling, but soak them first before you give up on them.
That black head has a lot of deflections...
We always kept a dated stack of nozzle test so we could see trends. Which ones came and went and which ones were lost for every.
http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?122493-SP540V-won-t-print-black&p=1223868#post1223868
That black head has a lot of deflections...
We always kept a dated stack of nozzle test so we could see trends. Which ones came and went and which ones were lost for every.
http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?122493-SP540V-won-t-print-black&p=1223868#post1223868
Jester1167
Premium Subscriber
I had a small piece of glass that I would squirt some of the cleaning fluid on and press it against the heads when it was docked for cleaning at the left side of the machine. The metal lip around each head kept it from making contact with the nozzles. The glass was big enough for all for heads at once. I'm sure there are lots of other methods but this was the easiest method I could think of and I didn't have to remove the head. I just held it there for a minute or two after cleaning the cap tops, wipers and outside of the heads with cleaning solution and swabs.
Jester1167
Premium Subscriber
Don't use plastic unless you test it first. The inks and cleaning solution will dissolve certain types of plastic. Learned that the hard way. We had a few plastic jars and I cut empty cartridges and poured them in to the jars for touching up prints (fish-eyes, small head strikes...) The inks melted the jars in a few days and made a huge mess...
The caps are not sealed, so the head drys out. Then because of the loss of this seal,
the pump no longer draws ink though the head to clear out the clogs.
You need to clean the heads, caps and wipers every week or two.
You need to change the caps at least once a year. As soon as I start to notice individual deflections and test print "bars"
not printing that won't go away after a cleaning, I change the caps. 6 to 12 months.
I change the wipers as well when they get too curved or the cloth back starts coming off.
Use OEM caps and wipers. Eventually you have to change dampers. As expensive as they seem, I stick to Roland OEM.
The caps are not sealed, so the head drys out. Then because of the loss of this seal, the pump no longer draws ink though the head to clear out the clogs.
the pump no longer draws ink though the head to clear out the clogs.
You need to clean the heads, caps and wipers every week or two.
You need to change the caps at least once a year. As soon as I start to notice individual deflections and test print "bars"
not printing that won't go away after a cleaning, I change the caps. 6 to 12 months.
I change the wipers as well when they get too curved or the cloth back starts coming off.
Use OEM caps and wipers. Eventually you have to change dampers. As expensive as they seem, I stick to Roland OEM.
The caps are not sealed, so the head drys out. Then because of the loss of this seal, the pump no longer draws ink though the head to clear out the clogs.
What do for a head soak is I pinch off the black hoses from the caps to the pump. I fill the caps with cleaner, re-dock the heads, then turn the power off.
I use the head height (sp540v) (but I don't think the SP300 has that) to access the caps. Then I fill the caps with cleaner, dock the heads, and shut the power off. You will need to use some trick like wiper change or test print, power off when heads are printing to access the caps with the heads out of the way. You could use the manual cleaning to do that as well, but it will do a thorough cleaning that won't work because the pump tubes are pinched off.
I use the head height (sp540v) (but I don't think the SP300 has that) to access the caps. Then I fill the caps with cleaner, dock the heads, and shut the power off. You will need to use some trick like wiper change or test print, power off when heads are printing to access the caps with the heads out of the way. You could use the manual cleaning to do that as well, but it will do a thorough cleaning that won't work because the pump tubes are pinched off.
Have you changed out the caps and wipers and done a cleaning?
If so show us a test print now...
Dampers need to be pulled straight up, no twisting, no angles. It is very
easy to break the plastic carburetor they are attached to. Especially since the
carburetor is in constant contact with ink and solvent.
Also any ink drops on the cables or the circuit board could result in real problems.
If there is a technician close by it would be worth it to get them to do it in my opinion.
If so show us a test print now...
Dampers need to be pulled straight up, no twisting, no angles. It is very
easy to break the plastic carburetor they are attached to. Especially since the
carburetor is in constant contact with ink and solvent.
Also any ink drops on the cables or the circuit board could result in real problems.
If there is a technician close by it would be worth it to get them to do it in my opinion.
It looks the same...