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Vinyl installation failure

evoprinting

New Member
Hey all, I've installed vinyl for 10 years and have never seen this before. We've always used Phototex for walls but customer wanted this laminated so we went with 3m material.
Looking for any insights you may have.
1. Drywall was primed but not painted in Dec 23 2025. Vinyl installed Feb 06 2026

2. 3M 40c with matching laminate.

3. Within 3 days, we started getting bubbles and peeling.

I'm thinking the primer may be the issue. If that's the case, do you think a coat of eggshell, latex paint would solve the problem? Posting pictures and a video link here.
 

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  • Agree
Reactions: 1 users

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
I'd want the finish of the wall to be as glossy and smooth as possible. Don't cheap out, 3M IJ180C never lets me down. Do a test before you commit to printing the whole project. The worst thing is to print an entire wrap on vinyl you're unfamiliar with and on paint you're unfamiliar familiar with.

After 10 years, you should be able to line those seams up better than that. Looks real bad. Combination of wrong product, poor planning and bad installation.

1770602626276.png
 
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  • Agree
Reactions: 6 users

JeffBlank

New Member
Typically it’s usually the outgassing of the paint that causes failure. Given the time, primed or not, that doesn’t seem to be the case. I’ve had 40C fail on me for many reasons in the past because it’s “economy vinyl”. To mirror the previous response, we switched to CV3 many years ago and haven’t had a failure. Only the wall repair to navigate upon removal.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 2 users

Grizzly

It’s all about your print!
We stopped using 40c for this reason. 50/50 chance it would work. We only use 180cv3 for walls now. We don’t have to worry about adhesions tests or failures. If you have to do anything twice, you’ve lost any savings on using a less expensive material.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 4 users

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
When in doubt, I always recommend putting up Wall Size from Shieldz. You can get it on Amazon and at Ace Hardware. I've never seen a failure if people put this fast drying primer up before adhesive vinyl. Here's the link from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-C...9&sprefix=wall+size+shiel,aps,186&sr=8-1&th=1

Also - you all should be trying Retac from Drytac. The textures (Sand, Linen, Canvas) hide all of the imperfections in the wall. You don't laminate it because of the textures. And it is 6mils thick so very easy to install. Lastly - it won't take paint even years after application. Under $500/roll vs. IJ180 and a cast lam over $1200. Also less labor.

Ask me for a test roll. You just need a FedEx or UPS number and they'll ship it out. Best of all, their main US warehouse is in Richmond.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 users

natlmedia

New Member
Typically it’s usually the outgassing of the paint that causes failure. Given the time, primed or not, that doesn’t seem to be the case. I’ve had 40C fail on me for many reasons in the past because it’s “economy vinyl”. To mirror the previous response, we switched to CV3 many years ago and haven’t had a failure. Only the wall repair to navigate upon removal.
Is this an outside wall?
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

DL Signs

Never go against the family
+1 for not using IJ40, and using a good cast like IJ180CV3. 40 isn't a good product for walls in my opinion either.

One trick I pull out for some jobs is using shellac based sealers or primers (like BIN & KILLZ). They're alcohol based, so they stink like hell to apply, but they cure fast, and most vinyls bond well to them. If you want something water-based, go with the stuff MarkSnelling recommends.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

evoprinting

New Member
Thanks everyone for the replies. As mentioned this was a first foe me using 40c for drywall. I never considered this a "cheap" vinyl. There are certainly plenty less expensive. Cast vinyl seems overkill for indoor drywall but yes, now that I have to do it over, certainly wish i would have gone that route first.
I'm familiar with Drytac as I've used it a few times in the past. I couldn't use it for this job as the client wanted it laminated.
 

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
Thanks everyone for the replies. As mentioned this was a first foe me using 40c for drywall. I never considered this a "cheap" vinyl. There are certainly plenty less expensive. Cast vinyl seems overkill for indoor drywall but yes, now that I have to do it over, certainly wish i would have gone that route first.
I'm familiar with Drytac as I've used it a few times in the past. I couldn't use it for this job as the client wanted it laminated.
You can use the Retac Smooth and laminate that. There is also a 3.2mil Retac Smooth that you can pair with a laminate.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

evoprinting

New Member
You can use the Retac Smooth and laminate that. There is also a 3.2mil Retac Smooth that you can pair with a laminate.
I'm new to Drytac but like what I see so far. Actually was considering using the Premium Air line to do this job. Now is the time reconsider.

I have a couple of rolls of
Item # PAMP54150
POLAR PREMIUM AIR PB WHITE MAT
54X150-3.2MIL-GRAY PERM ADH

Would this be suitable for this job? Would ise the weathershield laminate.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Thanks everyone for the replies. As mentioned this was a first foe me using 40c for drywall. I never considered this a "cheap" vinyl. There are certainly plenty less expensive. Cast vinyl seems overkill for indoor drywall but yes, now that I have to do it over, certainly wish i would have gone that route first.
I'm familiar with Drytac as I've used it a few times in the past. I couldn't use it for this job as the client wanted it laminated.
you really need to get trained on how to property install vinyl. The way your seams are off by so much is unacceptable on a professional level.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 users

evoprinting

New Member
I'd want the finish of the wall to be as glossy and smooth as possible. Don't cheap out, 3M IJ180C never lets me down. Do a test before you commit to printing the whole project. The worst thing is to print an entire wrap on vinyl you're unfamiliar with and on paint you're unfamiliar familiar with.

After 10 years, you should be able to line those seams up better than that. Looks real bad. Combination of wrong product, poor planning and bad installation.

View attachment 180941
Agree, this is terrible but this is after i pulled up the vinyl to inspect the wall. This isn't how it was lined up.
 

evoprinting

New Member
you really need to get trained on how to property install vinyl. The way your seams are off by so much is unacceptable on a professional level.
Agree, this is terrible but this is after i pulled up the vinyl to inspect the wall. This isn't how it was lined up.
I was hoping to get different insights on the bubbling.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
I'm new to Drytac but like what I see so far. Actually was considering using the Premium Air line to do this job. Now is the time reconsider.

I have a couple of rolls of
Item # PAMP54150
POLAR PREMIUM AIR PB WHITE MAT
54X150-3.2MIL-GRAY PERM ADH

Would this be suitable for this job? Would ise the weathershield laminate.
It is a permanent 3.2mil. If you don't care about jacking up the wall at removal, it should work after you apply the Wall Size primer. The Weathershield laminate is the best stuff out there.
 

TEN

Premium Subscriber

evoprinting

New Member
3M has a bunch of information about wall prep - isopropyl wipe, etc. We have had good results with Arlon 4200 on painted drywall. The matte version can be laminated if lam is needed. Arlon has a guide to compatible paints and primers.
Thanks for this information!!!
 

Bonzai901

New Member
Is the temperature change in the wall with the combination of vinyl not having a good grip on the surface, vinyl behaves different on different paints
 
Hey all, I've installed vinyl for 10 years and have never seen this before. We've always used Phototex for walls but customer wanted this laminated so we went with 3m material.
Looking for any insights you may have.
1. Drywall was primed but not painted in Dec 23 2025. Vinyl installed Feb 06 2026

2. 3M 40c with matching laminate.

3. Within 3 days, we started getting bubbles and peeling.

I'm thinking the primer may be the issue. If that's the case, do you think a coat of eggshell, latex paint would solve the problem? Posting pictures and a video link here.
 
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