Wow, you are very detailed in your explanation. Most of the time, people have given me short answers (not very helpful). I very much appreciate your info.you're gonna want a low-tac option if you're struggling with the transfer/application tape peeling up graphics... if you ever do wet install, do not use the clear application tapes since they're plastic... you'll always want to use the paper transfer tapes for wet installs (unless someone knows of a plastic application tape that I'm unaware of). As for particular brands or style/model numbers of application tapes for clear, sadly I don't have a recommendation, I'm strictly a paper guy... hate that clear stuff personally. I think it trash talked my mom at one point or something, I don't know, can't remember, but I'm holding onto that grudge. --- edit to add and emphasize: almost all transfer/application tapes come in different "tac" grades, just make sure you're using low tac if peeling graphics or laminate separation is an issue. This time of year, the surface could be cold for your install which could be hindering your vinyl's initial tac and making it weaker than your transfer tapes tac, thus the lifting up... so your solution could be as simple as heating up the surface of your install ahead of time. Another benefit of paper application tape is that you can get it wet and make it release easier, but getting the clear ones wet won't make a difference since they're plastic and obviously the wet won't penetrate and weaken the adhesive on the other side of it. --- extra edit to add: sweet signature! you're alright.
Yeah, shipping multi layered films is always an issue. Transfer tape always goes on the outside. You'll have much better luck if you wrap the graphics tightly around a core -- ideally a 5 or 6" core if you can find one. The regular 3.5" media roll cores work "okay" if that's all you have. Just squeegee the absolute piss out of the graphics (or run them through an empty laminator with high pressure). Tape one edge to the core, wrap the graphics around it as tight as you can, then stretch film or tape the outside edge. Works great for me.Wow, you are very detailed in your explanation. Most of the time, people have given me short answers (not very helpful). I very much appreciate your info.
Here is my problem: I typically use the paper app tape and do most of the installs myself. However, I occasion, I have to ship large hood graphics to a customer in another state. I tried to roll the digitally printed and laminated graphic loosely in a 12" square box, but the paper app tape wrinkles up. In the past, I have asked this group which is teh best way to roll the graphic with teh paper tape applied, and I was told to roll it up with the app tape on the outside of the roll, but it still wrinkles.
So I tried to use the Clear app tape, and the out-of-state customer said they had a lot of problems with the clear tape not removing from the laminated image.
I have another order for the same customer from 3 years ago, and I don't want them to have an issue installing the new digitally printed and laminated graphics.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
When we ship or store premasked stuff, we leave an outside border of vinyl, maybe 1" wide, all around the graphic. Usually its just the box made from the weed border/registration mark area, but it helps to keep the edge from lifting and attaching itself to the rest of the graphic or the box. It doesn't necessarily help with keeping the print and backer from buckling apart, but it gives a solid side to squeegee back down to smooth the graphic out on the backer before install.I tried to roll the digitally printed and laminated graphic loosely in a 12" square box, but the paper app tape wrinkles up.
Even when I'm not shipping -- I leave borders on everything. Great for transport and for leveling/centering during install.When we ship or store premasked stuff, we leave an outside border of vinyl, maybe 1" wide, all around the graphic. Usually its just the box made from the weed border/registration mark area, but it helps to keep the edge from lifting and attaching itself to the rest of the graphic or the box. It doesn't necessarily help with keeping the print and backer from buckling apart, but it gives a solid side to squeegee back down to smooth the graphic out on the backer before install.
The one time I had to deal with a clear premask was awful, low tac paint and graphics that were delivered 6 months early, plus the AC wasn't installed so it was 50 degrees inside, it was awful. Ended up essentially peeling the individual pieces as we removed mask and sticking them one by one. And of course it was some bs like a bunch of flowers and stems.
I did a Serv-Pro truck many years ago that they sent the vinyl. It was a painted green box truck, so just cut graphics, but the vinyl and tape must have been a couple of years old (sent directly from the sign company). It took longer to get the paper off than what the whole job should have taken, and I basically was sticking every letter individually.When we ship or store premasked stuff, we leave an outside border of vinyl, maybe 1" wide, all around the graphic. Usually its just the box made from the weed border/registration mark area, but it helps to keep the edge from lifting and attaching itself to the rest of the graphic or the box. It doesn't necessarily help with keeping the print and backer from buckling apart, but it gives a solid side to squeegee back down to smooth the graphic out on the backer before install.
The one time I had to deal with a clear premask was awful, low tac paint and graphics that were delivered 6 months early, plus the AC wasn't installed so it was 50 degrees inside, it was awful. Ended up essentially peeling the individual pieces as we removed mask and sticking them one by one. And of course it was some bs like a bunch of flowers and stems.