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Wrapping a Semi (the Rig not the box)

Retro Graphics

New Member
So I have a wrap job coming up, but before that my client wanted me to throw on some temp decals until they can get it to me. While doing the temp decals today, I noticed, it had some spots that were super smooth and did not want to stick. The body is a painted fiberglass, this is not a new truck. I had wiped it down several times with Rapid Tac2, then dry applied it, no rivets or anything as an issue. I guess basically I want to confirm this is oxidization, also will alcohol still work on it or should I use something like a " CrystalTek Ghost-Off" cleaner and then wipe down with alcohol?

The client basically wants me to make all the red disappear. I was planning on using TekWrap Dark Platinum (that's the color he liked and I have a bunch in stock). then just apply the logo and numbers again on top the wrap.
 

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fuzzy_cam

The Granbury Wrap & Sign Guy
Speaking from experience, be careful with this one. Clean a spot or two with alcohol, let it dry, and then run your hand across it, with the customer on-site. If your hand comes back with any white powder or red oxidation, you need to explain to the customer that this project is not a perfect candidate for a wrap. It is possible that it can be buffed or polished out but this one could come back to bite you, probably not that far down the road.
 

decalman

New Member
I remove oxidation all the time, on fiberglass usually.
Go to the dollar store and get some black magic white bleche TIRE CLEANER. Cost $ 3.95
Get bucket and brush. Wet down an area. ( not all at once) then spray the concoction on truck oxidization area. Rub with brush, spray with hose. Oxidation comes off easy. Alcohol won't remove it. Neither a hundred other things.
 

Patentagosse

New Member
Well, that's an old lady
It's a Volvo-White-GMC of 2nd generation. They were made of aluminum (cab) with fiberglass hood and quarter fenders. If you spray Rapid Remover, wipe it down, rince with water + usual alcohol final wipe, you should get proper adhesion. Otherwise a quick compound can do the trick but there's some spots where you won't be able to run the buffer and it's usually spots you really want a good tack. If you apply a premium quality masking tape (i.e. 3M 233+) and didn't get decent tack, abort the project before hitting the wall. Surface must be polished by someone with proper knowledge. Just my 0.02 for what it worth... 32 years in business doing mostly semis ;)
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
I could paint it for 1/2 of what you'd charge to wrap it and it'll last 3 times as long. You're not doing this guy any favors by steering him your way so that you can make a buck. Wraps are a temporary thing.
 

Retro Graphics

New Member
Speaking from experience, be careful with this one. Clean a spot or two with alcohol, let it dry, and then run your hand across it, with the customer on-site. If your hand comes back with any white powder or red oxidation, you need to explain to the customer that this project is not a perfect candidate for a wrap. It is possible that it can be buffed or polished out but this one could come back to bite you, probably not that far down the road.
yeah when i cleaned it for the original decals, i didn't notice any white or red, but i didn't use alcohol either, only the Rapid Tac II.
I could paint it for 1/2 of what you'd charge to wrap it and it'll last 3 times as long. You're not doing this guy any favors by steering him your way so that you can make a buck. Wraps are a temporary thing.
Yeah that's something else I'm considering. I have no qualms with him going to paint it, but I need to exhaust my resources first. His issue is he's trying to get it on the road ASAP, and fresh paint requires outgassing, so if he paints it, he can't letter it right away or we will have to be swapping the lettering fairly regularly to keep it moving around from getting to adhered.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
yeah when i cleaned it for the original decals, i didn't notice any white or red, but i didn't use alcohol either, only the Rapid Tac II.

Yeah that's something else I'm considering. I have no qualms with him going to paint it, but I need to exhaust my resources first. His issue is he's trying to get it on the road ASAP, and fresh paint requires outgassing, so if he paints it, he can't letter it right away or we will have to be swapping the lettering fairly regularly to keep it moving around from getting to adhered.
Not true, You can letter it the next day. I do it all of the time.
 
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