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HP 630

H

Humble PM

Mostly tolerates architects
Just had an email through from a supplier regarding a (I believe) new HP latex.
Looking at the spec, Long-term print-to-print repeatability 95% of colors < 3 dE20002.
Does this mean that 5% of colours aren't long term print to print repeatable, and that the remainder can be expected to be visually different?
 

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  • HP_Latex_630_Printer_Datasheet.pdf
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balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Shorty it's almost the same as L700 but it only has one row of printheads, no 5-layer white, no spectrophotometer, less heating capacity, it doesn't lift up and other small things.

That color variance is because it has no spectrophotometer.

I've been using one for few weeks and it has good improvements over 700/800. For example I've yet to have a crash printing from pinches. There is no OMAS but rather a wheel that does the measuring which I like way more.

This L630 is sort of what L335 is to L365.
 
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artofacks1

artofacks1

New Member
balstestrat said:
Shorty it's almost the same as L700 but it only has one row of printheads, no 5-layer white, no spectrophotometer, less heating capacity, it doesn't lift up and other small things.

That color variance is because it has no spectrophotometer.

I've been using one for few weeks and it has good improvements over 700/800. For example I've yet to have a crash printing from pinches. There is no OMAS but rather a wheel that does the measuring which I like way more.

This L630 is sort of what L335 is to L365.
Click to expand...
Is there a visual manufacturing difference why you get no crashes from pinch rollers or you think it’s firmware related in comparison to the 700w?
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
artofacks1 said:
Is there a visual manufacturing difference why you get no crashes from pinch rollers or you think it’s firmware related in comparison to the 700w?
Click to expand...
There is, bottom of the heater has these "ribs" and I'm not sure if the distance from the platen to heater is different, could be.
Also one less heater than L700 so less turbulence and suction upwards, I think that makes a fair difference.

1695493181335.png
 
wrapz.be

wrapz.be

New Member
So...

I currently own a HP Latex 570 which is still working great but has nearly 60k m² on the clock and is sometimes starting to show that it's gonna cost me some money soon.
The drive belt is starting to go and needs replacement soon, but ok that's not a huge cost.

Other than that it has been working good.


But I'm in the market for a new printer anyway, for sure with white.

I'm not going to upgrade to a 700W because the cost doesn't make sense to switch from a fully working 570.
But if the cost of the 630W is pretty good I might actually buy one

I don't care as much about the speeds, but I wonder how the lack of spectrometer will have an impact on long term reprints?
It's not like the 570 has perfect colormatches in reprints anyway...

Can u really print from the edge of the roll with the 630?



edit: what annoys me the most about my 570 is the inconsistency in lengths.
Last week I had to wrap a window aprox 3 by 4 meters so I had 3 panels of 3 meters long.

The first panel was nearly 0,5 cm shorter than the other 2, so I was unable to perfectly match my print between panel 1 and 2. Panel 2 and 3 had the perfect size.
I guess this has something to do with the OMAS?
 
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balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
wrapz.be said:
So...

I currently own a HP Latex 570 which is still working great but has nearly 60k m² on the clock and is sometimes starting to show that it's gonna cost me some money soon.
The drive belt is starting to go and needs replacement soon, but ok that's not a huge cost.

Other than that it has been working good.


But I'm in the market for a new printer anyway, for sure with white.

I'm not going to upgrade to a 700W because the cost doesn't make sense to switch from a fully working 570.
But if the cost of the 630W is pretty good I might actually buy one

I don't care as much about the speeds, but I wonder how the lack of spectrometer will have an impact on long term reprints?
It's not like the 570 has perfect colormatches in reprints anyway...

Can u really print from the edge of the roll with the 630?



edit: what annoys me the most about my 570 is the inconsistency in lengths.
Last week I had to wrap a window aprox 3 by 4 meters so I had 3 panels of 3 meters long.

The first panel was nearly 0,5 cm shorter than the other 2, so I was unable to perfectly match my print between panel 1 and 2. Panel 2 and 3 had the perfect size.
I guess this has something to do with the OMAS?
Click to expand...
All I can say is loads of people do work with L115/315/335 etc. without spectrophotometer and also the people who have it but don't use it... So I don't think it's that critical unless doing constant brand work with specific colors.
You can always get a i1 and it has way more use than the internal one. It can still do color calibration with the line sensor.

I can say I still haven't had any problems printing from the edge of the roll. But I'm sure there will be some materials that can't do it but right now everything has worked.

Length consistency has more to do with the high heat which is also lower on the L630. And like I said above, I like the new "OPT" way better than OMAS.
But if you read from the L700 threads people can still have issues so..
 
I

ikarasu

Active Member
balstestrat said:
All I can say is loads of people do work with L115/315/335 etc. without spectrophotometer and also the people who have it but don't use it... So I don't think it's that critical unless doing constant brand work with specific colors.
You can always get a i1 and it has way more use than the internal one. It can still do color calibration with the line sensor.

I can say I still haven't had any problems printing from the edge of the roll. But I'm sure there will be some materials that can't do it but right now everything has worked.

Length consistency has more to do with the high heat which is also lower on the L630. And like I said above, I like the new "OPT" way better than OMAS.
But if you read from the L700 threads people can still have issues so..
Click to expand...
I still don't buy the length consistency being a product of high heat. .


You throw some 3m diamond grade material in and it won't be constant either.... and there's no way in hell heat will stretch that material.

We still can't use our 700 for wall murals with complicated patterns because they never align perfectly.... vertically long panels are hit and miss and not worth the effort. We can get it to work by running a few items before and taping it up to the take up reel and a few other tricks.

Plus.... the 700 uses less heat than the 560, our 560 was perfect alignment ( seems like half the people who own it have perfect, half don't) .... so shouldn't the 700 be better, or at least the same? I think the new take up system is part of the length problems.

Maybe our machine is an outlier! But from what I've read, inconsistant panels has been a bane on the 700/800 series..
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
ikarasu said:
I still don't buy the length consistency being a product of high heat. .


You throw some 3m diamond grade material in and it won't be constant either.... and there's no way in hell heat will stretch that material.

We still can't use our 700 for wall murals with complicated patterns because they never align perfectly.... vertically long panels are hit and miss and not worth the effort. We can get it to work by running a few items before and taping it up to the take up reel and a few other tricks.

Plus.... the 700 uses less heat than the 560, our 560 was perfect alignment ( seems like half the people who own it have perfect, half don't) .... so shouldn't the 700 be better, or at least the same? I think the new take up system is part of the length problems.

Maybe our machine is an outlier! But from what I've read, inconsistant panels has been a bane on the 700/800 series..
Click to expand...
Yeah sure I'm not saying the heat is the only thing. 700 got it's own issues.

Did you get the enhancement kit done on it? Otherwise (and even with the kit if the installer doesn't know or wasn't careful!) I can almost promise your drive roller encoder is scratched and I've seen that making problems. And this wasn't even a widely known issue a year ago.
2nd is the dang new OMAS which I hate. The lense gets dirty so easy and it just doesn't read as well as the old ones in 500 etc. That's why I really like the new OPT wheel on 630.

My opinion, way more paneling problems on 300/500 than 700/800. And I hope 630 has even less but that is to be seen.

Anyway you should be able to get decent result if everything is in working order. Have you tried to figure it out? These hairlines show pretty well if the movement is off during print or not (my magenta alignment is off, don't worry).
If you have some space on the side of your job you can add them and see how it moves. It should be consistent, no thinner and thicker lines mixed. At least you know if you have a problem that can be fixed or settings modified.

1695709710534.png
 
T

Tim de Beir

New Member
ikarasu said:
I still don't buy the length consistency being a product of high heat. .


You throw some 3m diamond grade material in and it won't be constant either.... and there's no way in hell heat will stretch that material.

We still can't use our 700 for wall murals with complicated patterns because they never align perfectly.... vertically long panels are hit and miss and not worth the effort. We can get it to work by running a few items before and taping it up to the take up reel and a few other tricks.

Plus.... the 700 uses less heat than the 560, our 560 was perfect alignment ( seems like half the people who own it have perfect, half don't) .... so shouldn't the 700 be better, or at least the same? I think the new take up system is part of the length problems.

Maybe our machine is an outlier! But from what I've read, inconsistant panels has been a bane on the 700/800 series..
Click to expand...
You should create a profile with take-up ‘no tension’ for murals works great! I have no problem at all even with monomeric tiled prints
 
I

ikarasu

Active Member
balstestrat said:
Yeah sure I'm not saying the heat is the only thing. 700 got it's own issues.

Did you get the enhancement kit done on it? Otherwise (and even with the kit if the installer doesn't know or wasn't careful!) I can almost promise your drive roller encoder is scratched and I've seen that making problems. And this wasn't even a widely known issue a year ago.
2nd is the dang new OMAS which I hate. The lense gets dirty so easy and it just doesn't read as well as the old ones in 500 etc. That's why I really like the new OPT wheel on 630.

My opinion, way more paneling problems on 300/500 than 700/800. And I hope 630 has even less but that is to be seen.

Anyway you should be able to get decent result if everything is in working order. Have you tried to figure it out? These hairlines show pretty well if the movement is off during print or not (my magenta alignment is off, don't worry).
If you have some space on the side of your job you can add them and see how it moves. It should be consistent, no thinner and thicker lines mixed. At least you know if you have a problem that can be fixed or settings modified.
Click to expand...
I asked about the enhancement kit, and I was told its being slowly rolled out and only being allocated to machines with problems right now... That was about 3 months ago. We have an Epson Solvent printer we print everything critical on, so I havent pushed it too much.

I had the beta firmware which helped (I think its non beta now) - I can get it to print decently accurate.... But you have to jump through hoops to do it. And its pretty much impossible unless you start the print after its already on the take up reel...which wastes 4 FT of media, or you need to print 4 FT, stop, then print your panels. Not sure if the enhancement kit fixes that...


We pay for the extended warranty, so theoretically I can have them throw parts at it to try and "fix" it, but from everyone I know with a 700, and every reply on here... it seems to be a consistent issue, so I just dont want to waste time to get marginally better results.

We do a lot of wall graphics that are 10 FT long with small text, or small parts that need to align perfectly.... We've never got the 700 to do those properly - so we can print on the Latex and then spend 20 minutes strategically stretching each panel so it aligns properly... Or we can print on our solvent and have it be 100% bang on without giving it a thought... so we just choose to use our solvent! If it were our only machine... I'd probably spend more time trying to get it perfected.


But even with printing with it attached to the take up... its not consistant. We do a lot of extruded signs - 12" by 8 FT panels, 6 panels, sometimes 8 - If we print it all at once, the first 3 panels are ok... then the next 3 panels match that set, but then it can be a quarter of an inch off. If you do it while its taped up on the reel...all 6 panels will match.... and you waste 4 FT of material. But then if one of those panels has a head strike, or the installer messes up and you go to reprint... it doesnt matter if you do it after its on the take up reel or not... the reprinted panel can be 1/8, to 1/4" off from the other panels... especially if you reload the media. So we can get it to match... but then if theres a reprint, you're screwed.


Maybe it's the driver encoder, maybe the enhancement kit will fix it or make it better... We spent days playing around with beta firmwares and different ways to print it, its got A LOT better than a year ago, but it's still not perfect... or even perfectly consistently off. My Resin 50700 uses heat as well, and I've done 10 FT Panels that align 100%... another reason I don't think heat attributes to it at all... on cheap media, maybe.... But it just feels like Epsons solvent, and Latex just works without tinkering, or hoping / praying when you get to the job site everything aligns... where as on the HP.... I get to the job site knowing I'm going to be struggling.


Still love the HP For pretty much everything, we just wont use it where alignment is critical - If it was our only printer...we could make it work - It just takes longer to do the install.
And being 1/8 of an inch off over 8 FT isnt bad - I've seen wall graphic installs that go off way further than that... But if you can get perfect alignment... I don't see a reason not to! So we'll stick to our Epsons for the more critical stuff... and hope the next generation of HP's gets better and better at alignment. We'll always have an HP in our shop, it does a lot of things great / perfectly... alignment just isnt one of them! At least our printers alignment isnt.
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
ikarasu said:
I asked about the enhancement kit, and I was told its being slowly rolled out and only being allocated to machines with problems right now... That was about 3 months ago. We have an Epson Solvent printer we print everything critical on, so I havent pushed it too much.

I had the beta firmware which helped (I think its non beta now) - I can get it to print decently accurate.... But you have to jump through hoops to do it. And its pretty much impossible unless you start the print after its already on the take up reel...which wastes 4 FT of media, or you need to print 4 FT, stop, then print your panels. Not sure if the enhancement kit fixes that...


We pay for the extended warranty, so theoretically I can have them throw parts at it to try and "fix" it, but from everyone I know with a 700, and every reply on here... it seems to be a consistent issue, so I just dont want to waste time to get marginally better results.

We do a lot of wall graphics that are 10 FT long with small text, or small parts that need to align perfectly.... We've never got the 700 to do those properly - so we can print on the Latex and then spend 20 minutes strategically stretching each panel so it aligns properly... Or we can print on our solvent and have it be 100% bang on without giving it a thought... so we just choose to use our solvent! If it were our only machine... I'd probably spend more time trying to get it perfected.


But even with printing with it attached to the take up... its not consistant. We do a lot of extruded signs - 12" by 8 FT panels, 6 panels, sometimes 8 - If we print it all at once, the first 3 panels are ok... then the next 3 panels match that set, but then it can be a quarter of an inch off. If you do it while its taped up on the reel...all 6 panels will match.... and you waste 4 FT of material. But then if one of those panels has a head strike, or the installer messes up and you go to reprint... it doesnt matter if you do it after its on the take up reel or not... the reprinted panel can be 1/8, to 1/4" off from the other panels... especially if you reload the media. So we can get it to match... but then if theres a reprint, you're screwed.


Maybe it's the driver encoder, maybe the enhancement kit will fix it or make it better... We spent days playing around with beta firmwares and different ways to print it, its got A LOT better than a year ago, but it's still not perfect... or even perfectly consistently off. My Resin 50700 uses heat as well, and I've done 10 FT Panels that align 100%... another reason I don't think heat attributes to it at all... on cheap media, maybe.... But it just feels like Epsons solvent, and Latex just works without tinkering, or hoping / praying when you get to the job site everything aligns... where as on the HP.... I get to the job site knowing I'm going to be struggling.


Still love the HP For pretty much everything, we just wont use it where alignment is critical - If it was our only printer...we could make it work - It just takes longer to do the install.
And being 1/8 of an inch off over 8 FT isnt bad - I've seen wall graphic installs that go off way further than that... But if you can get perfect alignment... I don't see a reason not to! So we'll stick to our Epsons for the more critical stuff... and hope the next generation of HP's gets better and better at alignment. We'll always have an HP in our shop, it does a lot of things great / perfectly... alignment just isnt one of them! At least our printers alignment isnt.
Click to expand...
I would get the encoder replaced. I'm sure it's scratched, your unit is so old it must have the old setup.
Other than that the enhancement kit wont make any difference on this matter.
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Well I just learned something new. Apparently it's better to always use 8-pass if you can. The new "pixel control" is optimized to it and output is best on it. Regarding banding, transitions, grain etc.

Still no crashes printing from pinches for me.
 
Last edited:
stickerhed

stickerhed

New Member
ikarasu said:
I still don't buy the length consistency being a product of high heat. .


You throw some 3m diamond grade material in and it won't be constant either.... and there's no way in hell heat will stretch that material.

We still can't use our 700 for wall murals with complicated patterns because they never align perfectly.... vertically long panels are hit and miss and not worth the effort. We can get it to work by running a few items before and taping it up to the take up reel and a few other tricks.

Plus.... the 700 uses less heat than the 560, our 560 was perfect alignment ( seems like half the people who own it have perfect, half don't) .... so shouldn't the 700 be better, or at least the same? I think the new take up system is part of the length problems.

Maybe our machine is an outlier! But from what I've read, inconsistant panels has been a bane on the 700/800 series..
Click to expand...
Try running one panel at a time. Let it go through the curing process then send over the next. This fixed our panels not lining up on wall graphics and wraps. (700w)
 
MarkSnelling

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
Humble PM said:
Just had an email through from a supplier regarding a (I believe) new HP latex.
Looking at the spec, Long-term print-to-print repeatability 95% of colors < 3 dE20002.
Does this mean that 5% of colours aren't long term print to print repeatable, and that the remainder can be expected to be visually different?
Click to expand...
If you want to be able to print consistent colors, you should at least consider a Colorado. I've got customers who have had to go back and reprint a panel months later and it matched perfectly.
 
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