Recent content by MikePro

zzz hss and a countersink to cleanup both sides of the hole.

cnc routed aluminum or dibond panel, with bridges to connect centers of letters.

pics of your nozzle test to confirm software vs hardware issue but greys printing with blue'ish/reddish hues is typically a color profile issue.

those have epson dx4 printheads right? definitely a broken/cracked manifold. easily happens with pressure while messing with the dampers, as the little plastic nipple that they seat-onto can snap easier than a toothpick. replaceable while also salvaging the existing printhead ...with a bit of...

Nuuuh Yolk City?!? I hear they got some good salsa. that being said, I can't hate on said designer for pushing a little brand-recognition. ...now run with it and offer some graphics to slap on his car doors or a stencil to powerwash/chalkspray onto sidewalks.

Belin is still my favorite brand. 33317(.125")/33475(.188")/33635(.25"). huge fan of multiple passes for clean edges, or at least a singlular roughpass halfway through the material at a ~.03"+ offset so the metal chips have an easier path to flow-out when doing your final part cuts.

if your customer is hellbent on not drilling into the block, maybe map out where the mortar lines are and place your studs there? you could, however, use adhesives to mount like VHBtape & silicone as statedd above...but then you're still ruining the block. 2-3 holes per letter actually does...

gaussian blur is great for watering-down hard pixel lines.

trim it out. even if you managed to stretch the piss out of the vinyl into that recess, it's going to be discolored and guaranteed to fail as it wants to lift up over time.

IJ160 seems pricey for a calendared vinyl but I'm sure its a fine media.

if you're on the islands, i'd highly recommend you ditch the solvent printer and get into an HP Latex. I still love Mimaki, and look forward to that being the brand for my first flatbed BUT i have not called a technician for service since we got our first HP latex in ~2006. edited to add: we...

hell i've even wrapped IJ35c onto the cheap double-sided gatorfoam with finished cardboard surfaces this way. the material naturally wants to shrink over time but the wrap holds it all tight to the face as long as it has a good grip around the perimeter.

there's some stuff on amazon, but the better edgecaps I've seen come for thicker substrates without spending eternity on google, here's the best 3mm/.125" edgecap I can find.

living in texas, you must be aware by now that the sun exposure can be brutal to signage. either edge-cap or wrap the vinyl around the edges & onto the backside ....or use a premium cast vinyl&lam combo. ...or make clients aware that dibond & vinyl has a life expectancy out in the elements, and...

+1 backing acrylic with polycarb. much more resilient and you can run your acrylic with minimal ledges.