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Nuuuh Yolk City?!? I hear they got some good salsa. that being said, I can't hate on said designer for pushing a little brand-recognition. ...now run with it and offer some graphics to slap on his car doors or a stencil to powerwash/chalkspray onto sidewalks.

Belin is still my favorite brand. 33317(.125")/33475(.188")/33635(.25"). huge fan of multiple passes for clean edges, or at least a singlular roughpass halfway through the material at a ~.03"+ offset so the metal chips have an easier path to flow-out when doing your final part cuts.

if your customer is hellbent on not drilling into the block, maybe map out where the mortar lines are and place your studs there? you could, however, use adhesives to mount like VHBtape & silicone as statedd above...but then you're still ruining the block. 2-3 holes per letter actually does...

gaussian blur is great for watering-down hard pixel lines.

trim it out. even if you managed to stretch the piss out of the vinyl into that recess, it's going to be discolored and guaranteed to fail as it wants to lift up over time.

IJ160 seems pricey for a calendared vinyl but I'm sure its a fine media.

if you're on the islands, i'd highly recommend you ditch the solvent printer and get into an HP Latex. I still love Mimaki, and look forward to that being the brand for my first flatbed BUT i have not called a technician for service since we got our first HP latex in ~2006. edited to add: we...

hell i've even wrapped IJ35c onto the cheap double-sided gatorfoam with finished cardboard surfaces this way. the material naturally wants to shrink over time but the wrap holds it all tight to the face as long as it has a good grip around the perimeter.

there's some stuff on amazon, but the better edgecaps I've seen come for thicker substrates without spending eternity on google, here's the best 3mm/.125" edgecap I can find.

living in texas, you must be aware by now that the sun exposure can be brutal to signage. either edge-cap or wrap the vinyl around the edges & onto the backside ....or use a premium cast vinyl&lam combo. ...or make clients aware that dibond & vinyl has a life expectancy out in the elements, and...

+1 backing acrylic with polycarb. much more resilient and you can run your acrylic with minimal ledges.

trace the original onto two dibond pieces, add graphics, and then stick onto existing with vhbtape&silicone. ezpz

yeah, after reading the replies about the cable it makes much more sense. headstrikes have a smear to them, but that definitely looks like a singular firing of the printheads at that moment of the motion.

easiest place to start is by searching "bimbo usa .pdf"

post a picture of your print-platen area without media in it.

salesman/foreman coordinate site survey, that info needs to go somewhere. easier to put it into a drawing, that the customer has approved, and installers can go into a job with all the necessary information to get to work & waste little time onsite. if you don't like paperwork, then just have...

you're in California. raise your prices, cut your costs ...or move your operations across state lines.

+1 to above stated IJ180c-10. slightly annoying how that pattern shows through the surface after application, but its good stuff. ij35/40c is cheap and reliable, but will not conform. we only use it on flat stuff.

such things I remedy by simply applying the un-weeded media to the substrate, gently applying, and then weeding-out the negative afterwards before finishing with a hard squeegee&heat. ...sometimes weeding out the letter centers first before premasking step to save myself the effort of plucking...

short runs this has never been an issue, but full-roll or multiple-roll runs I just takeup the whole print onto a roll and then hit it with the bandsaw. i've simply placed teflon tape in places where the sticky overhang laminate would touch anything before making its way to the roll. issue I...