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The subtanks have filters that can clog over time and they are somewhat finnicky, just like dampers.

I mean, the Gen5 has a damper system, Mimaki is just weird. Heck, the heads support dual ink feed and circulation, but Mimaki is weird and doesn't take advantage of it. Crazy. And yeah, Mimaki using Gen4 dampers for the air release is silly and weird. I love that stupid bracket they made to...

They do similar jobs. Dampers use springs and actuate with their little buttons when suction is present to open up and let more ink in. Subtanks tend to have sensors and tell a circuit to pump more ink when the float sensor says the ink is low. Sometimes subtanks are used in printers that have a...

Tricky finding new ones for a good price, and some of the refurbs are terrible about working for long. Best of luck, was in the same boat a while back.

These printers use subtanks, which are filled by pumps. Similar to dampers, but not 'automatic' like them. Here, keep this a secret tho, their manuals are apparently confidential.

When Rasterlink creates the raw data file for the printer, it does it there. Basically, a bunch of nerd stuff, and I sure as heck ain't going to try and teach folks how to do it. Playing with the raw print data is a recipe for disaster, even if you have a good idea what's going on.

I would take a bet on the subtank myself, p/n M020235. Same unit as on the UCJV300, so not too hard to get ahold of.

Put the art all in one file is about the only way I know how to reliably do that.

MK1 or MK2 UJF-3042?

This thread died in 2013, also not a lot of printers left using DX4/5 heads these days.

Pretty much any XP600 compatible UV ink will work fine, though the heads don't typically last all that long as they're not really designed for UV inks. i1600/i3200 UV heads would've been a better choice.

Looking on Youtube, seeing lots of machines. Prices are all over the place as well.

After almost 15 years, I don't imagine much of this thread is still relevant today, unless using a really old version of Flexi.

Yeah, if a syringe flush didn't fix it, new head is probably name of the game there. Could probably cut the bill in half if you were comfortable with doing a head swap, but I'd have to side with the diagnosis.

Won't work, have to print straight to adhesive. Can do it on a flatbed though. Tested LUS-120 (good), LUS-150 (also good) and LH-100 (bad) inks and it's workable on a JFX200 or UJF printer.

Might have carriage snagging up a bit, clean and re-lubricate the head carriage rails. Lots of good guides on how to lubricate linear rails on youtube as they are super common in things like newer 3D printers. If you hear grinding or clicking noises from either end, the pulleys might have bad...

I mean it is the newbie forum. Have you tried a bottle jack?

They're little circle disc filters they install on the clear vacuum lines on top of the head. They don't do much but are designed to plug up if the subtanks overflow to keep ink from getting into the pumps/valves. They look like these guys...

I'd probably start with subtanks. Check to see if the filters on the vacuum lines have plugged up with ink as well.

I have had much better luck with STS clear. Pigmented inks are a lot more forgiving of bad storage conditions, but clear can have much more visible degradation. Since it's imported in shipping containers, it can take weeks of months of sitting in hot or freezing conditions compared to inks...