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If your subtank is clogged, those are a bit of a messy chore to swap. Cheap part however. Mimaki P/N M021937 https://us.digiprint-supplies.com/en/ujf-3042-subtank-assy-m021937

If it's Indonesia, and it is, it is a scam.

Not easily, best just buying a new head if the thermistors are bad.

Get a new valve, they should be under $30. Spring stretch sometimes work, but lots of time the rubber hardens up. They're consumables and cheap. https://us.digiprint-supplies.com/en/ts-cartridge-valve-assy-m015864

Shouldn't need multiple cartridges, but the lines can be pretty rough. Not a bad idea to keep a bulk bottle of flush, like a liter, handy as well for cleaning fittings, damper connections and such with lint free cloths. Remember to wear gloves, that stuff be nasty.

On a serious note, for some prints, I welcome potential customers to try destructive things with prints. Wouldn't be too crazy for me to show people a print and hand them a chisel to try ink adhesion for themselves. Guess it just boils down to organization of a shop, sometimes it's good to just...

You did post this to receive feedback, sometimes it comes back in forms we dislike. That said, the more vulnerable things are to being touched in a public place, the more layers of protection are needed. Maybe mark off a corner for look-don't-touch stuff, or some sort of a barrier, etc. Most...

Figured I'd poke my head outside of Mimaki for a printer I am fighting. Got a maintenance code showing and am having a helluva time finding a local tech to reset the flags and get a parts list. Anyone know either a good tech, or a way to get the service program/manual for these? Not a tech with...

Not super helpful, but trick would be to find a diagram or service manual to help on that. Helps a ton on heads for most printers, especially since there tend to be a mix of mounting bolts and alignment bolts. Loosen everything and there goes all your calibration.

Rasterlink 7 is now like $40 and it doesn't take a monster computer to use it. Heck, I use some old Surface tablets with it around the shop and when in the field and it works great. Expanded compatibility would be great, but I am not too sure I would count on them pushing any ARM support anytime...

Temperature warnings on those heads, in my experience, are a huge warning sign of a bad head or possible connection issues. Ink rarely dries in the lines unless there's a source of air getting in, but it starts to dry inside the capping station, then the nozzles in the head and slowly into the...

The cg-ar is nice for budget, but the fx is the way to go if you have the cash.

Most cutters have an ID cut system, as they just use the mark reader to scan the psuedo-barcodes, but the Mimaki stuff meshes nicely with Rasterlink.

There is not a working Mimaki ARM driver to my knowledge, just X86 32/64bit drivers. Might be different in the future, but the lumbering Japanese dinosaurs can move slowly at times.

Reviving this thread usually results in me telling you 'no' as it shows a clear inability to follow instructions. People who cannot follow instructions are a hazard to their printers and it is best they are not given incentives to work on their machines in ways outside their realm of expertise.

Scrapped all my Mutoh stuff.

No

Mimaki cutters are pretty well integrated into RasterLink, so cut and scan is really nice. The CG-AR is a bit cheaper feeling than the nicer Graphtec stuff, but overall a totally capable vinyl cutter for the price.

Yes, just need a proper ds2431 serial number and data and a few values changed. Some inks like lh-100, pr-200 and such are dual chip compatible.

Note that the code in this chip is for PR-200 primer, 1 liter bottle. The expiration date is contained within the 13th hex value (0x19) and can be incremented by simply adding to it. So, changing it to 0x20 will move date further out and 0x18 would be a sooner expiration date. Most newer inks...