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Sounds like a bad damper, I think part number M022253. Also, the Mimaki part of the forum is here: https://www.signs101.com/forums/mimaki.208/

Full flush is typically with cleaning cartridges. Can also try using some pipe cleaners on the ends.

Pretty common to see residue in lines, the screens in the dampers keep it at bay typically. If you have gone a long time and lots of lines start getting kinda chunky, a full flush might not be a bad idea.

Lots of factors on blade life, quality, material, phases of the moon, etc. Good quality is a great place to start if doing production. Chinese blades are decent for hobbyists. A literal 'case of your mileage may vary'.

Might have to toy with overcut settings, I have had similar issues in the past with gnarly edges when cutting through full bleed like that. UV ink is tough stuff and tends to take a bit of material with it. Also, Mimaki subforum is here (but no need to repost there, just for future reference)...

In the cases of some printers like the UJF series, the switch is tied into the same loop

Usually means an emergency stop switch is pushed down, could also be a break in the e-stop circuit.

What error code(s) are you getting, if any? Is the motor showing any movement at all? Also, this is the classifieds section, Mimaki subforums here https://www.signs101.com/forums/mimaki.208/

M014071

Check the relay circuit located in the electronics panel on the bottom of the machine and see if anything has come loose.

The origin is just the print start, not the machine origin/home machine as defined by the hardware and end-stops. It's for setting a temporary origin, like you'd find on a vinyl cutter if wanting to start halfway in on a sheet that was already partially used.

I printed the 11 guys diagram out on stickers; it is hilarious. The part in question I believe is the zeroing LED for when you want to set a new origin. Do you have a service manual?

Looks like you're just bumping the capping station, the station is pretty clunky on the 7151 series, so pretty noisy. That said, definitely check the encoder strip for wear or damage. Depending on the motor type driving the carriage, there might be an encoder there as well. If it is using a DC...

Might be worth having a technician look at it if it is under warranty.

Check your curing lights and see if they have dirty glass, could also be issues with the ink itself. Can also adjust curing settings in Rasterlink and see if that helps.

STS LUS-170 can be swapped to or from Mimaki LUS-170 without flushing.

No telling, and yeah, 6 year old dead topic. If your printer is making noise, you have to be very specific where it's coming from, otherwise we can just guess and speculate. If the move was done by technicians, contact them and have them check it in person.

Sounds like a crazy setup, I love it. Will poke around in the shop tomorrow and see what I have hanging around.

I have some untested pulls kicking around but will have to check on those. I wish Mimaki used the standard 2 channel heads, absolute cheapest deal I can find on a 4 channel is $1921 versus $362 for a 2 channel. Same nozzle count, but not technically compatible without a new head carriage and...

How bad of shape we talking about? I have some that have been completely delaminated. Since they support crossflow, they tend to be stupid easy to flush and are already very long-lasting heads.