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haha...the ever popular gandi special. glad you are up and running.

this is a result of the media manager "scale adjust" tool in onyx. Here's how I think it works. When you open a file in preflight it uses the true document size from the file. Once you actually rip the file it show the corrected size values based on your settings in the "Scale Adjust" tool...

my first reaction is that is is an old roll of material or defective

The answers all depends on what type of work you are trying to produce. Give us a little more info and we can steer you in the right direction.

http://www.auroratextile.com/SpecSheets/Aurora%20Tech%20Sheet%20_AC%20Canvas_.pdf

http://www.ffr-dsi.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=100000063&prodid=MI2117951A

merriit, you're gonna love the gs2000. after using our gs2000 to replace our gandi 3150 we're having a gs3200 delivered in a week. Good times!

+1 for torching. just go over it at a semi quick pace. you'll visibly see the change, and then you are all set to mount. I have used 3651 with no problems.

It's a problem with the connection to the magenta printhead. check the connection on the ribbon cable on the back of the carriage. Essentially, if you loose connection with a printhead it will act shorted and fire all the time. I have seen Seiko, HP, and Gandi printers all exhibit this...

never used a sabre cut, but on our icut you run multiple depth passes for cutting and then do a finishing pass with a minor offset. follow that up with flame polishing and you should be all set. that, or purchase a diamond tipped bit and cut it like butter. =)

just curious, what is the recommended Vutek Adhesion Promoter?

Yes, a short in the printhead can zap the power supply board.

i would try printing uni-directional first, as it doesn't involve doing any work :thumb:

like i said, i've never taken apart a printhead for the 200. the 3360 spectra heads were held together by screws. I though you are supposed to use the air supply for the take-up winder so I never messed with differing PSI. On both solvent and uv machines I have always hid the worst heads in...

I found that running the step align test was not always 100% accurate, better to eye ball that and adjust as needed. The bi-dir test should be spot on though. how does you jet test look? smooth and clean.....or yucky? Also, what mode are you printing in?

yeah, that's the correct machine. do you think there is damage to the jet plate or just clogging of the nozzles? Here's how I would clean: 1) Load fresh "maint fluid". Clip in head, run for 15 minutes. 2) Scrub with supplied brush 3) Use the "blow" function of the cleaner to blow into...

the link doesn't say it will do printheads for the PV200. Which Vutek head cleaner are you using? They made a few revisions over the years. I have had good luck with their most recent (2006?) model of cleaner and found it far better to use than any of their older models, as well as most...

Harry Thin

OK...just to preface we were in the market for a new machine recently and visited both Oce and Fuji (we are located 10 minutes from each in Chicagoland). First things first....they are the same machine, and use the same printheads and ink so there is no theoretical difference between the 2...