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Straight edge and a knife is the best way to cut magnet (unless you have one of those fancy flatbed chingaderos :rolleyes:). Apply your printed vinyl on the magnetic media, and then score it with your knife. Use a fresh blade and change often, score it like 1/3 to 1/2 way through and then flex...

Reminds me of a hydro print job from about 10 years go. I camo dipped a prototype game call speaker of some dude and did it as a rush because he had a meeting with Bass Pro or something like that. He wound up stiffing me and ghosting me over a couple hundred bucks. Then out of the blue a couple...

Oh I like the matching thing

"sorry, we've already exhausted our charity budget for this year" They don't need to know that budget is close to zero.

what media is that? It almost looks like the results one gets when trying to use uncoated media with incompatible ink.

I've heard the same, just got a couple of scraps from a buddy to play with recently but haven't had time to do anything with them yet, I was kinda figuring on cutting it from the back so the bounce didn't screw up anything in the machine. At least that's my current thought process.

The sounds like maybe an ideal laser situation

I would suspect that "JanisK" is only here to link spam in the body of the message to drive traffic to the 2 sites, seeing as how this is their one and only post and it's a necro-thread. Pretty common tactic to get backlinks.

I know nothing about polar grip, but have you tried the 440 LSE from Substance? It sticks well to plastic kayaks FWIW. They will send out a free sample roll if you contact them.

How long is rope? How high is up?

FWIW specialty-graphics.com sells smaller cuts of vinyl materials, including cast by the foot. I've ordered plenty of oddball stuff from them over the years and never had any issues.

A sandblast cabinet is just less messy than open-air blasting. Unless you already have a fairly decent sized compressor you're not going to run one efficiently. Where are you located? There may be someone nearby that can assist with that. I'm looking at and thinking about how much of a PITA it...

Aircraft stripper will desolve just about any paint out there, but honestly with the rust, I'd try to find someone with a blast cabinet to give it a quick stripping and remove the rust. If you can't do that, after stripping, use some evap-o-rust to neutralize the remaining rust before you try to...

there's a common one for welding shops asking to make some gates. It's almost become a running joke in some of the groups.

this stuff is great if you don't want to actually HEM a banner, but I've only ever used it on smaller ones. YMMV but it may be worth a try. Is available cheaper at vendors other that amazon, but since time is of the essence...

I'd give mineral spirits a shot. It does a number on most adhesives but won't harm the automotive paint. Will leave a slightly "oily" residue behind so you'll have to follow up with some dawn and hot water or iso alcohol to get rid of that, but should soften and allow the removal of the...

Today I learned that cut vinyl doesn't stick for crap to dry-erase laminate. :banghead: But at least I'll get a good burger or wings and some excellent fries out of it tomorrow when I drop the panels for his sign-a-cade back off to him. :munchie: This is a temporary solution while he's redoing...

Looks very similar to the RFQs I see from the state. I'm betting somebody stole the document from that sort of source and adapted it to be their own.

yeah I've always somehow been the guy to go to for "weird shit" :omg2:

THAT is the kind of info I'm looking for. Gonna research the transparent wrap film and see if it is clear enough to not fubar the mirror look. TYVM!:goodpost: You don't have any of that sitting around, do you? :corndog: