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There is a new laminate from Continental Grafx (North Carolina) which is 24mils thick. It is the thickest, toughest floor laminate I know of. You can print on a permanent or removable (if you want it to last for years, it doesn't matter as removable will become permanent after around a year)...

I can't tell you scientifically why it adheres to freshly painted walls....but it just does. I've (knock on wood) not seen a failure. The adhesive can touch itself, too, without ruining the print.

Retac from Drytac is a 6mil semi-rigid....that means no stretch. Very stable film designed for walls and it has textures to hide the imperfections in the drywall. Much less expensive than IJ40 or IJ35 + laminate and easy to install. We've got stock in Cleveland. It's great stuff.

If you allow UV ink to get on your hands and/or skin over a long period of time it is common to develop an allergy to UV inks. I know of several people who didn't wear gloves when cleaning heads/drains/spills and after a few years, they cannot even walk into a room with a UV printer in...

Try Retac from Drytac. It has a high coat-weight of microsphere removable adhesive which adheres really well to walls and even after years of application it won't hurt the wall at removal. Best of all, the films have a texture so you don't laminate it. What you are doing now probably costs...

Mark Tangry at Lake Graphic and Label can do it....he's also in Ohio based right by the Cleveland airport and he is a wholesale shop. He has an incredible Durst dye-sub printer and high end finishing equipment.

Any polymeric film (5 year) from a North American supplier should do the trick. One good thing about our Freshwater Films Ultra lam is it has a thicker adhesive coat weight to avoid any silvering even without heat-assist.

I've got several 'sticker' producers using Colorado 1630 or 1650 printers. The units are significantly faster than anything else in the 60" market, the inks are incredibly durable, and the cost per-square for those 'sticker' guys is less than normal....they would tell you $.05 for things like...

Why use 3M IJ180 on a flat graphic? You could get similar performance with films that cost hundreds of dollars less.

are you sure it is dust and not just silvering? silvering looks like tiny little air bubbles and some people think of it as dust.

The vast majority of my customers with Colorado 1650 printing in High Quality mode (400sf/hour) are around $.08/ft2

I've got several 1650 customers who wrap vehicles all the time. It works quite well. I've even got customers who do cheap vehicle graphics WITHOUT laminate....the inks don't scratch....

Try Retac from Drytac. It is 6mil semi-rigid (no stretch, very stable, some customers double-cut it and for whatever reason it doesn't really shrink). If applied to a well painted wall, it removes cleanly even after years of application. You don't laminate it (it is textured) so you save...

Drytac has textured printable films that are great like the Retac suggested above. There are some embossed laminates out there but they are hard to come by. The most popular would be the typical sand-texture you see in floor graphics. Can your job be printed on a textured film? That would...

Putting IJ 180 on a window is like putting premium gas in a Pinto. There are a lot of much less expensive films that can go on a window which will look and feel the same in the end....and there are also plenty of film which can be applied in temperatures down to zero degrees Fahrenheit...

I've got a customer in Grand Rapids looking to sell off their 2 year old CWT router. It has several heads and a conveyor, so you are able to cut through all sorts of boards AND rolls of prints. It is in great shape and available for virtual or in person demonstrations. They are only looking...

HP print heads are consumables (as you know) and they are slowly dying every single day....this is a common occurrence and can be viewed as a disadvantage for latex owners. The condition of your head from 2 months ago is different than the condition it is in today making it difficult to match...

I rarely post on Signs 101...but if I see someone looking for a solution and I've got it, am I breaking a rule by posting "I've got product XXX that will solve the problem you are working on". Or are you referring to people just posting products for sale in general?

Give me a call. I used to sell those devices. I also have a customer looking to sell his unit. 216-903-8313 -Mark Snelling @Hasco Graphics

Seal or Kala machines are the best. They will last for 10 or 20 years if you take care of them. They also run straight for an entire roll. Dont be short sighted...the Asian laminators rarely last more that five years and then you'll be spending another $7500.