Search results

My first guess would be the prints are skewed ever so slightly. I know all three of the Mimaki cutter's I've used have been touchy about that, at times. If you're 100% certain the marks aren't skewed, then my next guess would be the sensor.

My laptop handles design work with no problem- Illustrator, Photoshop, Corel- even FlexiSign. I'm sure one day tablets will, too- I just don't see them being at that level yet (I'm not counting touchscreen PCs as tablets).

Not necessarily. The CMYK values (more colors making for a darker color, etc) can make the banding unnoticeable. Addendum: I'm not saying that's definitely the problem, I can just remember it being an issue for me.

I have seen this with some banner materials (unfortunately, I can't recall the manufacturers), which is what it looks like you're running there. Does it happen on other media, or just your banners? Setting up the machine to run the media (steps, etc) would probably help.

DuraSol is a product that springs immediately to mind. Comes in 7, 12, and 18 mil, if I recall.

Yes, I realize that. That's why I said build a version of the file that works, then let the serialization function take over. On most programs, that function copies every part of the "unit" you want (including the white underbase) and duplicates it for each copy. So, even if the white underbase...

I'm not really familiar with VersaWorks, but most design programs can do the variable data. Personally, I'd build one version of the file that does what I need it to do (with the white underbase), then use the design program's tool that handles variable data (it's called Serialization in Flexi)...

It's like pee-can and pa-cahn. :smile:

I always thought of stickers as something they put on my kid's homework in kindergarten when he got a good grade. Decal just sound more professional to me- whether it's a printed decal or plotter cut decal. Or printed decal, cut to shape, etc.

According to Gerber's (3M, whatever) literature on the material, the service temp is -40 to 225. http://www.gspinc.com/downloads/PDF/materials/PB-%20Gerber%20HP%20Series%20220.pdf if you want to read through.

Try adding at least one more vertical piece (two easel stands on the back instead of one)? I used that method on a 36" x 48" once (four uprights across) and it worked. That said, I also made my own uprights from scrap coroplast, and could adjust the foot to better handle the load. Just a...

That's the way to go, in my opinion- but, you could have stopped at "marketing departments...are the worst". :banghead:

Yes, it looks cool. The reality, though, is that you could scrape that off with your fingernail- usually pretty easily. Granted, I am speaking only from experience with the DCS UV24 (a machine that is a steaming pile of crap), but the idea that it's a feasible alternative to using applique is...

Yet customers (and salespeople) will argue and argue and argue about it.:banghead:

That's exactly what I was thinking. From the material's spec sheet: "For best results, utilize ORAFOL ICC profiles available at www.orafolamericas.com and allow solvent-based inks to dry for at least 24 hours(48-72 hours preferred) at 70°F before cutting the graphic to the ink or applying a...

I second the opinion that you're going far too fast (with too low a spindle speed, too). Though I never used a 1/2" for cutting letters, I have been able to do 4 pass cuts running use 1/4" or smaller bits on 1" thick acrylic (because the letters are viewed relatively close up) 100 per minute...

FlexiSign and SignLab should be compatible. I'd imagine CoCut is, too.

I can't speak specifically on the Roland, but- even if the inks all come from the same head, they aren't coming from the same nozzle. A black nozzle could be misfiring/clogged/whatever while the Cyan right next to it is fine. Check the troubleshooting section of the manual and follow its...

Nozzle check, cleaning, maintenance. Whatever the user manual suggests.

Yep, that's what I was gonna say- not compliant.