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The cg-ar is nice for budget, but the fx is the way to go if you have the cash.

Most cutters have an ID cut system, as they just use the mark reader to scan the psuedo-barcodes, but the Mimaki stuff meshes nicely with Rasterlink.

There is not a working Mimaki ARM driver to my knowledge, just X86 32/64bit drivers. Might be different in the future, but the lumbering Japanese dinosaurs can move slowly at times.

Reviving this thread usually results in me telling you 'no' as it shows a clear inability to follow instructions. People who cannot follow instructions are a hazard to their printers and it is best they are not given incentives to work on their machines in ways outside their realm of expertise.

Scrapped all my Mutoh stuff.

No

Mimaki cutters are pretty well integrated into RasterLink, so cut and scan is really nice. The CG-AR is a bit cheaper feeling than the nicer Graphtec stuff, but overall a totally capable vinyl cutter for the price.

Yes, just need a proper ds2431 serial number and data and a few values changed. Some inks like lh-100, pr-200 and such are dual chip compatible.

Note that the code in this chip is for PR-200 primer, 1 liter bottle. The expiration date is contained within the 13th hex value (0x19) and can be incremented by simply adding to it. So, changing it to 0x20 will move date further out and 0x18 would be a sooner expiration date. Most newer inks...

===SOFTWARE=== I am going to assume that people who are going to this step have some basic experience with the Arduino IDE. Pretty easy to get started and there are thousands of tutorials. 1) Open the Arduino Library Manager under Tools> Manage Libraries 2) Install OneWireHub library. 3) Copy...

===This is going to be a multi-part thread, so the first post will not be all-encompassing. === This is open source information, zero special software needed. It simply allows someone to emulate a chip for duplication, backup or easy transfer. This should not interfere with any printer...

If you get the same ink type, fine with swap-as-you-go. If changing types, will need to do a flush.

The factory stands use screw-down feet to lift it off the wheels, but the bed itself on the MKII's move so it's not a high accuracy thing. Don't have to be crazy level like you would with something like a JFX200.

Wheels make servicing the printer WAY easier. -Guy who works on printers all day.

Based in OKC, but if you need remote guidance, lots of people on the forum. Tends to be a straight-forward operation and the CJV150 is a lot easier than the CJV300 since it just has a single head.

2 customers I have use them and like them, comparable to Mimaki and way cheaper.

I use silicone grease, also comes in handy for circulation pumps.

Probably a bad idea.

We're exclusively UV in our shop and I service all sorts of printers; Aqueous, solvent, UV, toner, even edible inks. For our use at least, UV inks have a 1 year shelf life and Mimaki ink, on a good day might have 8 months left on the date by the time they get to me. Figured it just made more...

These use the Epson i3200 HD 8 channel UV heads. While I do have some gripes about the printer, I would definitely call it an upgrade to the UCJV300, especially in terms of print quality, and the 300 is a tank. Interested to see if it can be just as reliable in the long run too. The printer has...