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Looking on Youtube, seeing lots of machines. Prices are all over the place as well.

After almost 15 years, I don't imagine much of this thread is still relevant today, unless using a really old version of Flexi.

Yeah, if a syringe flush didn't fix it, new head is probably name of the game there. Could probably cut the bill in half if you were comfortable with doing a head swap, but I'd have to side with the diagnosis.

Won't work, have to print straight to adhesive. Can do it on a flatbed though. Tested LUS-120 (good), LUS-150 (also good) and LH-100 (bad) inks and it's workable on a JFX200 or UJF printer.

Might have carriage snagging up a bit, clean and re-lubricate the head carriage rails. Lots of good guides on how to lubricate linear rails on youtube as they are super common in things like newer 3D printers. If you hear grinding or clicking noises from either end, the pulleys might have bad...

I mean it is the newbie forum. Have you tried a bottle jack?

They're little circle disc filters they install on the clear vacuum lines on top of the head. They don't do much but are designed to plug up if the subtanks overflow to keep ink from getting into the pumps/valves. They look like these guys...

I'd probably start with subtanks. Check to see if the filters on the vacuum lines have plugged up with ink as well.

I have had much better luck with STS clear. Pigmented inks are a lot more forgiving of bad storage conditions, but clear can have much more visible degradation. Since it's imported in shipping containers, it can take weeks of months of sitting in hot or freezing conditions compared to inks...

Sounds like a bad damper, I think part number M022253. Also, the Mimaki part of the forum is here: https://www.signs101.com/forums/mimaki.208/

Full flush is typically with cleaning cartridges. Can also try using some pipe cleaners on the ends.

Pretty common to see residue in lines, the screens in the dampers keep it at bay typically. If you have gone a long time and lots of lines start getting kinda chunky, a full flush might not be a bad idea.

Lots of factors on blade life, quality, material, phases of the moon, etc. Good quality is a great place to start if doing production. Chinese blades are decent for hobbyists. A literal 'case of your mileage may vary'.

Might have to toy with overcut settings, I have had similar issues in the past with gnarly edges when cutting through full bleed like that. UV ink is tough stuff and tends to take a bit of material with it. Also, Mimaki subforum is here (but no need to repost there, just for future reference)...

In the cases of some printers like the UJF series, the switch is tied into the same loop

Usually means an emergency stop switch is pushed down, could also be a break in the e-stop circuit.

What error code(s) are you getting, if any? Is the motor showing any movement at all? Also, this is the classifieds section, Mimaki subforums here https://www.signs101.com/forums/mimaki.208/

M014071

Check the relay circuit located in the electronics panel on the bottom of the machine and see if anything has come loose.

The origin is just the print start, not the machine origin/home machine as defined by the hardware and end-stops. It's for setting a temporary origin, like you'd find on a vinyl cutter if wanting to start halfway in on a sheet that was already partially used.