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Can't say on the Roland, but my D140 has been a tank with only a few minor issues over the past 2 years that I can count on one hand. (software related, not mechanical) I cut regular vinyl using Winplot and then do contour cuts through Wastach Softrip. Fast, accurate, OPOS is the best there...

Thanks for sharing, just ordered! :thumb:

Like any printer decision, it all depends on what you want to do with it and do you foresee the need to continue to print solvent ink over the next several years. The JV33 is a tank, much better built than similar Mutoh or Roland printers in my opinion - I classify it as a true commercial grade...

Thanks for the kind words RG - though you should probably thank my parents for instilling that "help others" mentality in me. :wink: Honestly, I'm not here to spoon feed anyone easy answers about this industry, and I completely understand the choice of others to be selective in what they share...

My grandfather had a saying; "A poor man can only afford to buy something once." (Google that saying and the most popular phrasing is that he can only afford to buy the best - but the above is how my grandpa said it.) With that in mind, I've had countless times I have heeded and ignored that...

I actually run 2 Mutoh VJ printers with DX5 heads, but I have been told Roland OEM and Mutoh OEM are almost identical in formulation. I switched a few years ago to JetBest inks and have been nothing short of pleased with their SKY eco inks formulated for Mutoh and Roland. Very good ink...

If we're talking about DX4 & DX5 heads using eco-solv inks, I think the idea of a head cleaning machine is a waste. Why? In my experience, eco-solv inks are very forgiving and not at all as harsh as mild solvent or full solvent inksets. I've personally never done a DX4, but I've recovered a...

Here is a video showing how the SummaCut does perf (flex) cutting; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaspxzwZ8iM *At 2:08 you can see how the decals just fall apart after being perf cut.

I've owned the larger AK-600 (65") for almost 3 years now. On the AK series, the machine has independent knobs on each side to lower the top roller. When you web it up, you have to be vigilant when you lower the roller that you are doing it evenly. Otherwise you might see some tracking issues...

OK, USCutter better be sending me a commission check due to the jump in sales of these things. Lol. :Big Laugh

Just wanted to re-visit this thread for clarification as I've been getting a PM about once a week on this topic; First, I merely showed the link for Lava Inks to show the cartridge type. I do NOT use Lava inks. FWIW - these carts are the type I use on my 1204 and I would also suggest these...

Here you go: http://www.uscutter.com/Big-Foot-Safety-Ruler I have both a 31" and the 67" version. Both work very well, much less than the Sooper. You're welcome. :wink:

I have used regular banner material, but the kind made for banner stands that have anti-curl properties work so much better. *FWIW - I have been using the matte finish material that BigFish offers with the opaque gray back for the majority of my pop-ups and retractibles.

Ah, my mistake.

I personally use the solid core (Grimco Max-Metal) 99% of the time. Along with cheaper price, I feel it is easier to work with, and not having to use edge caps is really nice. However, I would NEVER string a 4x8 3mm across a pair of posts hoping it would stay there without some extra bracing...

I've always wanted to go via a Viking Funeral. Load me in my fishing boat, push me out on my favorite fishing lake, light that sucker and watch it burn...:thumb:

A or D for me.

Yup, couldn't agree more. My US Tech AK-600 has been a real workhorse for me. Can't complain - for the money you can't beat 'em.

Don't want to sound too nuts talking about cover-ups and conspiracy theories with this. However, I often wonder how much of this crap is for legally "greasing" someones palm? We had a similar scenario play out 4-5 years ago here in my town of just about 10,000 people. The City paid $150,000...

Yes, that looks like the one - it attaches to the back of the cutting head.