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Just to play devil's advocate, Flexi is now at version 12. The one you're attempting to install is far past its end of life in their eyes (Version 8 was released, if I recall, in 2005 or 2006). Unless you had a support contract with them, you're probably a low priority to them. I'm not saying...

We spray the alcohol on the belt, cover it with plastic (cheap drop cloth or something similar) for about five minutes, then scrub with a Scotchbrite pad or something similar soaked in water. It may take some scrubbing if the ink is really cooked on there, but we usually do it once a month...

If someone's willing to pay for the artwork, time, etc.- I'm sure a faux version could be created/printed.

In the area where you adjust the CMYK values, does it not show what the current values are? (Not familiar with VersaWorks, sorry)

Not familiar with the specs of your printer, but I know FlexiSign's Production Manager will tell you what percentages of each ink used when you double-click on the job and go to the color options tab (I'm going from memory- been a while since I did it) and select the color as if you were going...

It's a pretty decent media for the application, but you'd still be at the mercy of not knowing what the paint is. Plus, the rolls of this I've used have invariable had glue on the edges- which I think happens when the media heats up a little (the glue "runs" if that makes sense). It reminds me a...

That's why I suggested installing on ACM or thin aluminum. They did some of these at my previous employer (right before I joined the company)- and they failed. Heat, humidity, and contractor's paint meant the vinyl came off relatively quick. Putting them up on a substrate allowed us to use the...

I'd say paint the mural. Barring that, convince the customer to allow you to install them on either thin aluminum or ACM. Contractor's paints are rarely conducive to good adhesion.

Aren't the road signs still made in prison shops? I'm pretty sure they give $%^& one about quality.

If it helps, it looks as if you did a good job.

Tough call there. The shops I've worked in generally do have it spelled out that, once approval is given, the customer is 100% responsible for layout errors (arrows, directions, spelling). That's usually the "out." Of course, you also have to consider whether it's worth bickering with the...

Do you not have their signature on a physical copy of the sample? I mean, sending a sample to the customer for them to okay is good- but sending two and insisting they send one back with a signature is ideal. My .02, anyway.

How about masking and painting? Then cut your translucent as normal and mask with clear transfer tape. That allows you to line up your elements individually. Yes, I've had plotters cut the same file differently on different materials. I'd suggest you get a tech to take a look and make sure...

As was already mentioned, studs or brackets. If it's in full sun, I'd put a rigid backer (.063" aluminum) behind it, too.

Maybe they call it a "finder's fee".

That's pretty hard to see, but my guess is Goudy or some variation of it.

Not sure about the cause, but I had luck putting transfer tape on the laminate before hand applying. That gave the ability to truly bear down when squeegeeing.

I've found that (if moving the pinch rollers still doesn't work) I can "trick" my Mimaki (and the Graphtec I ran before it) by putting the outer pinch rollers off the sheet (both of those plotters have four pinch rollers) and using just two to hold the print. That way, the sensor has no problem...

If only the self-proclaimed design experts would actually pay attention to those suggestions. (Please note, I'm not saying the OP would do that- just that, in my experience, designers ignore those suggestions like they'd been offered by the cleaning staff.)

I'm not familiar with your particular piece of equipment, but my experience shows that's usually because the outer-most pinch roller isn't far enough outside the target for the sensors to "see" it. If you can move them out a bit, it might help.