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Sounds like the money truck will be backing up to your shop
Heat & peel a bit
And.......
Repeat several hindered times
Bad client bad client (scolding not a BAD client)
Hours into removal x rate = bill
I’d discuss this with you client. Tell them how to remove it and maybe they will do it for...
Remove and charge accordingly.
The client should NEVER have let it get that bad. Fault is on the client now they must pony up the money.
Other option....
Replace the hood. Guessing a few hundred bucks would get you a good salvage one. If rewrapping, the color does not matter
Let’s try this analogy....
Treat this like a dart board.
Profiles provided by manufacturers get you on the board and maybe really close to a bullseye. However, if you what to hit that bullseye, you will need to create your profiles.
Now if very close is good enough, then you are good to go
another wall install gone bad!
When doing a wall install graphics, letters etc, you have to know a few things
- What type of paint used / manufacturer?
With the low VOC paints being used you have to know what will work what mounting
- Primed?
Primed helps the paint stick to the wall not your...
Create your own profile(s).
Should solve your “printer printing darker”
Ink limits, color being correct, etc
You should also check the color spaces you are working in. I’d recommend SWOP v2 and Adobe 1998
Would also recommend that you invest time to learn the basics of color management.
Wraps are one of the most complicated vinyl/vehicle applications there is! I've seen some real horrible stuff out there.
Tons of primer!
Heat the crap out of it and jam it in there!
Poor corners!
Poor seams!
Cuts in the clear coat/paint of vehicles!
Poor registration from panel-to-panel!
If...
Not familiar with the Flexcon material but if it is a calendared vinyl & lam, you will have nothing but problems with the rivets popping up over time. No to mention shrinking.
You most definitely need heat! Post heat the heck out of it to reset the memory of that vinyl as much as you can...
Sounds to me like you need a good shop cleaning. Then look at how you are handling and storing your prints.
Ours go from our print room > storage for drying (solvent prints) > shop area for lamination when ready.
Just add heat and scraper if/as needed
Adhesive remover if/as needed
If you are removing perf after 3 months and having problems, sounds like cheap material. Also unlaminated adds to the issue.
Question is why would someone do perf without lam. (Insert your remarks here for those that...
Does the Rollie-pro foam take the the heat required for proper install? 1000 degrees on the heat gun quickly melts my rollie-pro foam rollers!
I only use my Rollie-pros on rivets and some other lightly textured stuff but never for wall installs
Just an FYI.....
We print 2nd surface on glass for the Harley Museum with GREAT success and quality. We are using a Mimaki JFX200
Acrylic panels as well
You quickly tack the top/bottom/and 1 side
Then work from top to bottom
I assume the trapping mentioned is if you work your application improperly and close off a mortar joint. With proper installation techniques you should NEVER have this happen
FYI....
We use 480 w/ 8548G lam
received a call from a client saying that the van wrap we did recently (within 6mo.) is fading! Orange fading to Yellow
Has anyone out there using the GS6000 had this happen recently?
Anyone know if Epson changed their ink?
I’ll know more when I see the van.....
:frustrated::frustrated:
I think what you are seeing is the result of the vinyl being worked into the corrugations and the optical result of the lose of the straight line of the graphic
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