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Does the Muoth VJ have chip recognition built in? That is, do the oem carts have a chip on them? If so, how do Lyson get around this - particularly with the bulk ink/refillable system?

Signlab will add reg marks automatically to any job that contains a "contour cut line". You only need to send this job once - print it, then cut it straight from the queue. It works perfectly as it should at finding the marks. Grafix USA - The Flexi driver should work equally well without...

Thanks for the replies Randy. As I said I do like the specs on the VJ1304 machine. It's compact (nearly 18" less width than the VP 540), it's quiet, practically odourless and seriously fast. The profiling I can get around by making my own for use with Signlab, so I would expect to get at...

My point being it may have been quicker by a few hours in actual time, but the Roland guy was off doing other jobs all the while the Mutoh was being attended to. In fact he could have scheduled the VP to run overnight, thereby making any speed claims redundant. I'm just making a point...

I just found this thread and viewed the Sign Myth Breakers thing. It was a well done video but when you look a bit deeper things aren't quite so one sided. For instance, when you send the job to the Versacamm you can leave it unattended from start to finish. Go and make some signs, do some...

Hi Rooster, I use ITL mild solvent inks in my converted roland and they work well - no clogging, easy maintenance etc. There are some materials it doesn't like though but your JV2 inks may be a bit stronger in that respect. I have been running OG (hexachrome) inkset for 3 years now but I've...

Yep, totally agree that 2x CMYK would be the way to go. In fact it ships with 8x 440cc carts (CMYK TS - True Solvent). Also Take up reel, drying fans, fume enclosure AND carbon air filter. As well as Raster Link Pro2 and Fine Cut. AU$30k = approx US$27k.

G'day Michael, I too saw the ad for the Mimaki's in the Image Mag. That's a good deal for sure. They're running them out now as there's a new machine out - JV33 using the new larger head as used in the JV5. Personally I am more interested in the JV3 130SP bundle which is AU$30K. Prints onto...

Been toying with the idea of changing my FC7000-75 to load the media from the front. It'd be easier for changing rolls and for spooling out the vinyl by hand, which I sometimes do instead of pre-feeding a certain length. I just tried cutting from a sheet using the "ROLL 1 FRONT SET"...

Better get yerself another slab of beer for tomorrow....

Does it work okay? Does it cut into the strip much? What pressure did you use? What happens to the vinyl as it's scrolling back & forth through the machine? Did it kill the blade? Come on PMG - you're the GP (guinea pig)!

I replied to your post on the X position thread before I saw this.

They're not grams like the Summa - they're more like "units of measurement". Just get used to using whichever setting is best for you. Once the new blade has bed in you should be using around 18 for most vinyl and say 24 for laminated prints. I just use the default setting - works fine. Not...

You couldn't get your Graphtec to work well, so you took it outside and ran it over with your Hummer. That is one of the funniest things I've ever read here. Although I think Bob's insulting remarks have been somewhat vindicated. Please tell me you got a picture of the killing. I...

I've got mine at the top on the rear of the machine. Still need to pre-feed the roll though - no way out of that. I'm considering swapping over to front loading so it's easier to load & unload a roll and also easy to manually unwind by hand rather than using the keypad. Anyone out there using...

Just received this in my inbox

Yeah be careful going for those after market pads. Anything non genuine OEM will void your warranty ya know. :Big Laugh

Rod, when you first load media, the first screen you see gives you the option of selecting either front load or rear load. This is easily inadvertantly changed by pressing the up/down arrow. I've done it a few times accidently due to all the button pressing you have to do to get the machine...

Undo the little brass nut that holds the ink line to the damper. Attach the syringe directly to the ink line using small rubber tubing as a flange, so that you get a good seal. Now when you draw the syringe you definately will end up with ink coming through the line. If not, then you haven't...

First of all find the reason why the inks drained out. It's probably the sponges in the caps have swollen and made contact with the heads. Fix this first. Next remove a damper and use a syringe to pull ink through the lines manually. I do it by pressing the syringe up against the o ring in...