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Find someone that can direct print using UV. We are able to create a frosted look by using a percentage of white instead of full on white. We have done a lot of projects this way for the local college.
Direct printing to 030 styrene should be way cheaper than printing/laminating/applying. Are you getting quoted for direct print and lamination. I print a lot of styrene on our flatbed UV printers and its cheap.
use a perf that has a paper backing instead of the clear plastic type backing. We use ClearFocus with the paper back and have had zero issues. It is recommended by HP i do believe to use the paper back for perf.
We have most of our print vinyls standing on end. Use the plastic core piece that was shipped with the material and stand the material on those. This will stop the vinyl form falling over.
We print them in house all the time and do wholesale work. The one thing I might see as an issue would be shipping. With the weight of aluminum you may spend more in shipping and not be able to be competitive in your market for pricing. We use a combination of printers depending on the size...
If they are printing with solvent inks the print will smear if not laminated. The only way to get around not laminating is UV print or Latex. As far as the quality of the print that could be a lot of different things. I would almost say that they are printing this at a low quality resolution...
A lot of times the lines will not show in print, we typically flatten the files. I believe when the files come in that way they are designed using InDesign or similar programs and not Illustrator/CorelDraw. I am dealing with one now that is saying when they convert the fonts to curves/outlines...
I have a Mimaki JFX200 looking for a new shop if your looking for a dedicated flatbed. We have both true flatbeds and hybrid machines that we use daily. Each serve a different purpose. I have materials that I would not run through a hybrid.
I second the Zund machine. We went with the conveyor belt as well so we could contour cut/kiss cut rolls of vinyl. We run vinyl, acrylic, foam, PVC, ACM, wood styrene mostly.
Different routers will have different settings. Not all routers are created the same. We are at a router speed of 46,600 moving at 8 in/sec using a Zund 154 bit. I will caution you that there is a very good possibility those setting wont work for your Gerber. A lot of the setting are based...
We cut 3mm and 6mm ACM a lot with our Zund and the edges come out clean as can be, no need to do any sort of work after. I would check with Gerber and see what they recommend for that material as far as bits and speed settings.
We have used a variety of materials for this. We also do decals for baseball/softball helmets. We have started using Arlon 8000 since it is meant for low energy plastics. On some that will get a lot of abuse we use General Formulations Concept 109 Scratch Resistant Lam.
We use several Mimaki printers as well and laser cut jigs. There are holes on the table that would allow for registration pins. You will need to use these to allow the jig to be sit into the machine straight. If you do not use the registration pins you will have a tough time aligning.
We have a 24F. Great machine. The main things to consider would be how many sheets are you looking to run in 1 day and what is the budget. We are a small shop and to get started into the market we started with a Mimaki JFX200. It is not a fast machine but after 5 years it is still running...
We laminate UV Prints for certain jobs. We produce a lot of counter mats and print UV on 040 styrene then laminate with a scratch resistant lam. I typically don't use heat on normal jobs but turn it on for this to help. The best bet would be to run some test jobs and see how it works for you.
Take either a magnet or a piece of vinyl and apply it to the side of the vehicle. Take a good picture straight on. When you scale it into your graphics program make sure the piece you applied is the right size and you will be good to go. I typically use a 6"x12" piece and make sure the color...
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