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Cutting before printing is actually meant to prevent curling. It should be an option you can turn off though. Unfortunately I don't know how.

Any air that gets into the system eventually get's pulled out during cleanings if all the seals are good. Air bubbles in the system that do not get pulled out usually indicate an on going leak. Ink rarely drips out when there is a seal break. Instead air gets sucked into the system. If the leak...

The fact that it recovers fairly easily and stays that way while printing means it's more likely an ink flow issue. Did you change all of the dampers or just the problem ones? If you only changed one, that could be the issue. Sometimes when you have a strong new damper and a weak old damper it...

You can even unplug the printer and still pop fuses and damaged heads after there is no power to the machine. It's always best to unplug and wait about 15 minutes before working machines.

It's tough because the symptoms seem to contradict each other but I would get a few new pinch rollers and see if the problem goes away in that spot. That way you can rule them out or, if they do fix the issue, you know what to do next. Other than that my gut says the head or some electrical...

When we install printers we build it, ink it up, do all of the head alignments as close to perfection as possible, install the software, install boxed profiles, and then train the customer on maintenance and operation. We have them print out their own files to make sure they are happy with the...

I think I've emailed with you about this issue. It's one of those weird issues I see pop up once in a while with these machines and it seems to be hard to troubleshoot. My bet is on static or environment. Whenever the same thing happens to two different machines, it has to have a common cause...

It should have a number in brackets after the error. So for example, 1d8 head Xhot [1] or 1d8 head Xhot [2]. The number tells you which head is damaged. Unfortunately it means the head is over heating due to a short. It could be bad head cables but it's most likely the head.

Anything hitting the head carriage can give an overcurrent. It detects it in two ways, 1 is if it simply hits it's max voltage so that's when the head carriage hits something that makes it stop basically. But the other way is average voltage too high which is when it lightly hits something many...

That's savage. I couldn't help but evil laugh when I read it lol.

It's a shot in the dark but check your computer system specs. Specifically I would check the available memory. If it is anything different than what it should be or is anything other than an even number, you might have a failing memory stick. I'm thinking maybe the computer crashed because of a...

You just need to hold it until you hear a beep while it's booting. Usually right about the time it shows the firmware version.

Instruction 7 says: "It refers to 3.8.15 Replacing Head and remove Valve Head from Head." That's their way of saying you have to remove the head. Basically the head cover can't come off without removing the head which is super annoying. I know a lot of people who just never put the head cover...

Ah ok so it sounds like it is more of an issue than just the lock. I would clean the encoder strip, clean and grease the rail the head carriage slides on, and look for anything that could cause drag on the head carriage. Is the machine loud when it prints?

You might also have him look into using Pantone colors and then using the Color Mapping tool in Flexi. You basically choose a Pantone, send it to Flexi, and it prints out a range of colors around that Pantone. Then you just choose which one looks the best to you and Flexi will print that color...

Overcurrent errors are almost never the motor themselves. It just so happens that in this case I've seen the exact situation happen on CJV30s multiple times. Boot the machine up in parameter input mode, power on while holding the left and right arrow keys. It will boot in system parameter mode...

It looks like what happens when you paste an RGB image into a CMYK color space. Try opening the image instead of pasting it. Flexi should determine the color space from the file that way and it should look like in Corel. Could be something else but that's what popped in my head first .

Maybe there is some new material that I don't know of but as far as I know, all one way window material requires one room to be dark and the other to be bright to work.

Here's a link to the JV33 profile center at Mimaki. Just choose the proper ink set and color setup and it will give you a bunch of profiles.

I get those ads all the time and I'm only 36 :oops: