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Make sure you're getting the head carriage locked before proceeding with the limit position. It's easy to think it's locked when it isn't. You need to gently push the carriage to the right until the lock clicks and then stop. If you push it all the way to the right, it will lock and then unlock...

It depends on the bulk system you use but yes, if it's an open container, air could get sucked in that way. Once you put new ink in, it should be able to fill with a little charge. If it doesn't I would suspect the station or cap top as well. It should fill even with a couple of strong...

It's probably a cap top or maintenance station issue. When a cartridge goes empty and doesn't flag the machine, no air should get in at all. If air did get in, one or more connection along the ink line is failing. The more likely case is the cap top or maintenance station aren't pulling ink...

If you know for sure that the heaters should be on and hot and they aren't, it's usually a bad thermistor or a bad heater relay board. The thermistor is what reads the temperature so the heater knows when to turn on and off. The relay board is what actually routes the power.

In my experience with Illustrator it works the other way around. Usually the new versions can open older ones but not the other way around.

That's a possibility as well.

Unfortunately this indicates an electrical issue with either the IO board and/or the power supply powering the board. You'll need to test the power supply to make sure the 36v outlet is outputting between 35 and 37 volts and replace if it's abnormal. Then check the cable that connects the main...

As an Illustrator user for 2 decades, Corel and Flexi seem clunky and hard to use. But they would say the same thing about Illustrator. It takes a while to get to know these programs well. Most people prefer whichever one they learned on first.

I literally have a lock pick set and locks at my desk because of this guy.

These heads are fairly easy for someone who's used to installing heads. Since there's only one head, you don't have to align it to other heads which lowers the difficulty greatly. The only physical adjustment is the slant and the rest is regular ol' bi-directional alignments. The Mimaki also has...

By 9 - 5 I mean a regular shop that prints at most 1 shift per day and not a 3 shift operation. You can go into the Information menu in user mode and then hit enter on the Usage menu. That will show you linear media printed and also square footage but not nozzle fires for some frustrating reason.

The official lifetime of a DX7 head is 6 billion fires which isn't a very helpful number. In general we see DX7s last about 3 to 5 years using solvent ink. Dye sub seems to lower life expectancy to 18 months to 3 years. Of course I've seen heads last 10+ years and some fail before a year but in...

I don't work on the SG series but has anyone ever tried to manually flush the machine without service mode? I know it's possible on the older Rolands. Might be the only way to do it without a tech.

We've been seeing issues with mostly the black on the older ValueJets. We've switched most of those customers over to Bordeaux inks.

I don't know too much about the VG series but I've moved many printers in my time and a 2 hr trip won't hurt as long as you lock the head down. usually just need to run a cleaning cycle to pull any air out of the system and you're good to go.

Media comp shouldn't affect the heads differently. It simply adjusts how much media moves under the heads each pass so it should be virtually identical. That leads me to think it might be a head slant or maybe even carriage height issue. When you do the media comp, does it look the same on both...

I would just tape the valve open. That way you don't have to work on it with the power on. It's counter intuitive but to open the valve you push it so slapping a piece of tape on there will open it and keep it open.

Yes all the way from the cartridge to the damper. I usually manually drain the line by taking the ink cartridge out, opening the valve in the back of the cartridge holder, and then suck the ink out with a syringe from the damper side. Then I disconnect the line from where it connects to the ink...

It means fuse 10 on the I/O board is probably popped. It should say the rating of the fuse on the fuse itself. Pretty easy to replace but you would have to figure out what blew it in the first place if you don't want to just keep blowing fuses. It could have been a random fluke as well. In your...

Whenever I run into these ink flow issues on the older Mimakis I just change the ink line out. You can rip your hair out trying to find where the air is getting in or just replace the line and o-rings at each connection and be done with it.