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Use VHB tape for mounting. Only as a last resort you can use super glue but not recommended (works well tho) Remember that once the letter is on there, it's going to rip paint and drywall off the wall when removed. As for the pattern, you need a pattern. Get a roll of brown craft paper, place...

Heat and too much ink. Laminate it, it will fix it.

Wouldn't you just flip it around 180 degrees? If HP can't print a reverse material, it sucks.

Generally all of the online print companies who UV printer or flatbeds at between 360 - 600 DPI. So the images are blurry and crappy looking. They are setup for fast production and turn around times. When you print your own, you will be printing at 720 - 1440 DPI and it'll look a hundred times...

You can try to roll back your computer or search and make sure every single item of versaworks is deleted from the computer first. If anything happened such as a power failure during uninstall, that will happen. You can also contact Roland or your local dealer for help.

I won't use them ever again for electrical signs, but for solid dimensional letters I will.

I agree that you do need a laminator, never make permanent signs without laminate and never do wraps or anything without it. By the way you can pick up a great deal on a printer on Ebay for $6,000 - $10,000. Get a print/cut only and throw away your graphtec. Then you will have space for the...

I am not a fan of using silicone on those type of letters. When it comes time to remove, it's a huge mess and very hard to get off.

I highly recommend going with a Roland, go with Eco-Solvent ink. CMYK is all you need but if you can afford a little more, grab a white ink.

Keep the VP540, you will need both. Don't rely on Latex for everything.

Nice but too small for me, I have a 5' X 12' and it's still a bit small.

I am more inclined for the top one. Don't focus so much on the WOW factor, people often dress up their sign to get attention, but then either it's hard to read or no one actually reads the sign and is just looking at it. Go for something easy to read yet classy.

Never heard of it, but non-Roland ink voids the warranty on the machine. Plus I've heard some bad things about 3rd party inks. I stick with Roland brand every time.

I doubt 115 lumen LEDs are going to be bright enough.

I am about to do my first Florescent to LED conversion with the tube LEDs. So I am learning from this post. I've done many retrofits with modules, but never a bulb. There is a box cabinet on a pole that is 4' X 6' it has (4) 72" bulbs HO. Do I need to remove the ballast and put in a 24 Volt...

Should and is are two different things. I've found over a dozen that do not have any wood behind them. In those cases I generally have to cut a 2" X 12" piece of harden steel to act as a backer brace to prevent it from pulling through. Also a time when I went through 1/4" stainless steel, I...

Nothing was said about wood. It said aluminum sliding with a metal frame. In that case drill a hole and use Timberlok screws. If you can get behind it, use thread all and put a washer and nut on the opposite side.

For it to be up to code, you need to screw it in. Use a few 3/8 self tappers, another thing you can do is drill some holes in the sign, counter sink stainless steel screws with a flat head and either cover the heads of the screws with vinyl or paint, alternatively you can use screw caps to cover...

I've had customer who wanted custom artwork and then after buying a cheap $15 sign, they wanted a copy of the artwork in multiple formats, they said for business cards, website, etc. But I know what they really wanted it for. I did it with the first two and after two years never heard from them...

You can do front lit or back lit. The halo only reaches maybe 2" out past the letter and the curve isn't enough to warp the effects of the LEDs.