Need Install Suggestions Please!!!

[Custom Signs]

I am getting ready to Install a Dibond Sign to my Store Front Awning. The Awning is aluminum sheeting with a metal frame behind it. What is the best way to apply the attached Sign without having to apply with screws through the front of the sign?

Thanks for your Suggestions!

Terry B.

 

[rossmosh]

The first recommendation with signs like this is to figure out your mounting before you make the sign. By making the sign and now figuring out the mounting, you've eliminated various options. Simply going to 6mm ACM would have cost you not a lot more but the difference is you can throw a few screws in and they'd actually grab onto something. You could have also drilled holes through the ACM, counter sunk, put in a flat head screw/bolt, and then laminated over it. It's very likely the screw would never been noticeable.

That said, you should be able to mount this safely. Z-Clip/French cleat will likely be the easiest method to mount. The biggest issue with your sign is you've made it in a way that you will have a hard time using a mechanical fastener. VHB tape, adhesive, and some sort of screw that just grabs into the sign even a little bit will probably do the trick. You might find it helpful to cut a few strips of ACM and gluing that to the sign itself first. Then mounting the z-clip with tape, screws, and adhesive. To be perfectly honest with you, if it were me, I'd still probably want to throw a screw or three in there but that's me.

 

[petrosgraphics]

Terry, i do not see an awning in the photo. if you are talking about the aluminum false front next to the banner, you will have to put screws into the panel to secure it.

 

[visual800]

drill holes in the black parts of your sign, approx 4 would suffice. place sign on roof and srew them in just a little. back them outand place silicone on holes in roof put sign back up.

placing screw on the black parts is easier to conceal. i prefer the dark green torx head deck screws from lowes those will be hidden well in the black areas of your sign.
they drill clean and wont rust

 

[TimToad]

drill holes in the black parts of your sign, approx 4 would suffice. place sign on roof and srew them in just a little. back them outand place silicone on holes in roof put sign back up.

placing screw on the black parts is easier to conceal. i prefer the dark green torx head deck screws from lowes those will be hidden well in the black areas of your sign.
they drill clean and wont rust

The only I'd add to your suggestion is that he affix at least another layer of ACM on the back of the sign to give it a little extra rigidity and more for the screws to bite into. Unless you use washers on the front or screw out close to the edges, I've seen a wind gust yank a poorly supported piece of ACM right off a even a flat wall, let alone a fascia exposed to potential cross winds like this one is.

 

[ams]

For it to be up to code, you need to screw it in. Use a few 3/8 self tappers, another thing you can do is drill some holes in the sign, counter sink stainless steel screws with a flat head and either cover the heads of the screws with vinyl or paint, alternatively you can use screw caps to cover the screw headers and gives it a stand off look.

 

[visual800]

For it to be up to code, you need to screw it in. Use a few 3/8 self tappers, another thing you can do is drill some holes in the sign, counter sink stainless steel screws with a flat head and either cover the heads of the screws with vinyl or paint, alternatively you can use screw caps to cover the screw headers and gives it a stand off look.

self tapping do no good in wood and Im pretty sure there is wood behind those metal shingles. i always use the type screw that bites into the underlying materials.

 

[ams]

Nothing was said about wood. It said aluminum sliding with a metal frame.
In that case drill a hole and use Timberlok screws.
If you can get behind it, use thread all and put a washer and nut on the opposite side.

 

[Gino]

Whatever kinda screws or fasteners holding the banner down, will work for your sign. Just go through the black like mentioned and touch up with black paint.

Also, as mentioned, plan ahead, so you don't run into silly problems like this, if you're gonna create obstacles for yourself.

 

[visual800]

Nothing was said about wood. It said aluminum sliding with a metal frame.
In that case drill a hole and use Timberlok screws.
If you can get behind it, use thread all and put a washer and nut on the opposite side.

I know nothing was mentioned but Ive been behind enuff of these facias to know in all of my cases there should be plywood behind this.

 

[ams]

I know nothing was mentioned but Ive been behind enuff of these facias to know in all of my cases there should be plywood behind this.

Should and is are two different things. I've found over a dozen that do not have any wood behind them. In those cases I generally have to cut a 2" X 12" piece of harden steel to act as a backer brace to prevent it from pulling through. Also a time when I went through 1/4" stainless steel, I broke 5 drill bits before getting my 6 holes drilled out and with self tappers, me and a buddy pulled very hard and it was 100% solid.

Now it's illegal in my state to rely solely on self tappers for electrical signs unless they are a minimum of 3/8" thickness and into a metal stud or frame and not sheet metal. However the best and preferred way is thread all secured by a wash and lock nut.

 

[Moze]

1.) Buy these: CLICK

2.) Paint them white

3.) Use some of the non-painted screws and temporarily screw the sign in place, screwing through the outer white border of the panel. Screw through the sign and into the high spots of the mansard roof where possible.

4.) Put a number of pieces of masking tape on the mansard roof to mark the perimeter of the sign

5.) Remove the sign and run beads of Lexel along the entire length of every high point within the marked perimeter as well as some dollops where your perimeter screw holes are from step 3.

7.) Using the painted self-tappers, screw the sign to the mansard roof.

About $20 for the screws, Lexel and paint and about one hour to install. No need to go behind the wall. No need for through-bolting.

 

[visual800]

Should and is are two different things. I've found over a dozen that do not have any wood behind them. In those cases I generally have to cut a 2" X 12" piece of harden steel to act as a backer brace to prevent it from pulling through. Also a time when I went through 1/4" stainless steel, I broke 5 drill bits before getting my 6 holes drilled out and with self tappers, me and a buddy pulled very hard and it was 100% solid.

Now it's illegal in my state to rely solely on self tappers for electrical signs unless they are a minimum of 3/8" thickness and into a metal stud or frame and not sheet metal. However the best and preferred way is thread all secured by a wash and lock nut.

Ive read this 3 times and I still dont understand wth your talking about and as far as the 2"x12" steel thats quite a bit of overkill isnt it? can you please explain this or maybe some one else can

 

[Billct2]

I never liked the way a sign looks screwed flat to a sloped mansard roof.
We make a couple triangles from slotted steel and paint them the same color as the roof.
These are bolted to the roof, thru bolts if possible, if not solidly screwed into whatever the studs are,
and sometimes if there is a major issues finding the studs or lining it up, toggle bolts.
We put some roof membrane on the back of the steel and silicone the penetrations.
Then mount the sign to that.

 

[Marlene]

I never liked the way a sign looks screwed flat to a sloped mansard roof.
We make a couple triangles from slotted steel and paint them the same color as the roof.
These are bolted to the roof, thru bolts if possible, if not solidly screwed into whatever the studs are,
and sometimes if there is a major issues finding the studs or lining it up, toggle bolts.
We put some roof membrane on the back of the steel and silicone the penetrations.
Then mount the sign to that.

+1

 

[fastmax]

if you are intent on not using screws but the sheet metal your are adhering too is very smooth and vinyl friendly

then i suggest you cover and area with high tack vinyl to protect the awning facade and use some 2 part epoxy or 2p10 glue with activator....any serious industrial adhesive, hope this helps, but screws and brackets will help you sleep at night

edit- be sure to scuff the dibond or find something specifically for smooth metal so it doesnt pop off on a cold day a year later and kill someone