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The printers here are in a smaller room so you have to leave the tension bar on the machine, lay down and prop the bar up on your foot, and give it a reach around to get it taped on the core.

That looks like a scan/photo of an actual badge to me.

We are running Onyx 11 on a super-fast new computer on Windows 7. We have been having some tiling issues when ripping extremely large wraps. We wrapped a conference room and after every other panel it just skipped about 4" of image. We are able to go back and manually print only those panels...

The real question here is WTF are you plotting this with? A dull spoon? This is a job for a Gerber Edge; print the blue on white or clear.

Real close to Futura Ultra Black, but the "E" is different.

It's banner so it's all cheap IMHO. I'm still convinced it's ALL made by the same 3 guys in Taiwan and just different stickers go on the boxes. I've used a lot of banner types, and the only regularly occurring problem that I've EVER had is the little fuzzies along the sides that you have to burn...

If the media is contaminated, call your supplier for a refund and switch to a new brand. You should not have to wipe down every roll of material that goes through your printer; it should be free of contaminants and ready to print.

I'm not a Versaworks master anymore, but I think I understand the situation. I would recommend taking your original finished file and saving out a flattened JPEG file like you said, and then placing the JPEG back into a new VW file and overlaying the spot color vector onto the JPEG in that new...

I owuld assume you could if your RIP (like Onyx) was able to run on Windows 10. We run ours on Windows 7.

I have noticed the floor in front of our latex printer is sticky more than it should be. It just makes it even MORE fun laying down there to put it on the take-up reel!

Yes sir. We also only outsource to other PDAA members for installs outside of our service area. This is how all of the local installs that we do not print come over here now. I would say around 100 or so per year. ;) Even though we use a lot of geek wrap install tools here (yes those squeegees...

Our installers didn't need the training, BUT we have benefited from being 3M Certified and a PDAA member.

I think they might, Epson used to have their own RIP called Colorburst for their printers. However, we use Onyx RIPs here for all of our printers. I know another poster above suggested a Seal laminator, but I have to disagree and recommend a GFP laminator.

Look into the Epson S60670 line (previous generation), they just came out with their new models and every dealer is clearancing their demo models for rock-bottom prices. We just bought one with almost no "print miles" on it for an unbelievably low price.

Yes, you can, but you need to move the "roll end thing" to the narrow substrate position and also enable running narrow substrate printing in the menu.

Profile problem or possibly an RGB image? Our latex prints GREAT on either type of phototex (Latex or Solvent). Printing onto the opaque phototex generates better prints than the regular.

After meeting these guys at IMTS a year ago and getting some samples, this is the only cutting/tapping oil we use in our shop making 3D printers. http://www.steco.com/

We have a very similar amount of data here so a "cloud" solution isn't possible, but making a local backup onto another drive and then moving that drive to an offsite server backup solution that only checks for updated files every night to backup only them does work well.

I can't see how yall could be doing this on a 5GB or even 500 GB account.... I have single files within projects that exceed 5GB routinely.

Sounds like improper outgassing or cheap material. I would recommend reprinting on something like this with a full bleed applied to a full sheet. However, you could also just plot 1/2" wide strips of laminate and run that as edge sealer tape if you are really cheap.