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I'm not sure there are any plug-ins but there is a section in the user manual about setting up the marks manually. See attached!

Which motor error are you getting? Try running an environmental match. That should sync up the motor encoder and encoder strip.

Jame McGill travels around the midwest but I'm not sure if he goes your way. Worth a shot. 270 243-0599. Also, google PDS Equipment or ITNH. Both of them handle the Mimaki JFX200s nationally but might be expensive as they have to travel. You can also hire Mimaki directly to do it but they will...

Yes. In this case you would setup another spot color called CutContourHalf and it will use the half cut settings for that line. Just make sure you name it that exactly with capital C's and H.

You could try unplugging the maintenance station and powering on. If it is the station causing the issue the machine should turn on and give you an error. If ti still shuts down, you could have main board damage.

Do you see any air in the ink lines? When was the last time you changed the maintenance station?

Almost every after market Roland wiper I have tried is too stiff and gets stuck on the wiper scraper. The blue rubber is usually the stiffer type as well.

I agree with Ssignature but it's really rare for something to short in the maintenance area. I would unlock the head and push it all the way to the left of the machine and then turn the machine on and see what happens. Also, unplugging and waiting for a while could help as well.

Flexi Photo Print and the Current Subscription will be very similar. They are essentially the same program but the subscription is just the newer version.

Check your rendering intent settings in the RIP. Usually drop shadows and gradients are rasterized effects. If your RIP is setup to render vector and raster images with different methods, any rasterized image that is overlapping a vector image will look funky.

I have worked in the field for over 10 years and can tell you that getting 3 days of training at the manufacturer is pretty much par for the course for Roland, Mimaki and Mutoh. My customers ask all the time, "What kind of training do they give you?" and when I say a few days they are always...

I've used Super Lube brand synthetic grease for over 10 years in the field. No issues. Make sure to clean the rail with alcohol before applying the grease and make sure it's a very thin layer. You don't want grease splattering all over the encoder strip.

I'm not an expert in this particular area so there may be a better way. I'm pretty sure Raterlink won't do white gradients as they come natively from Illustrator or Corel. However my first thought was to make a normal gradient with black and white and then run the color halftone filter on it in...

Let us know what he says!

It's perfectly fine to let the solvents evaporate into the air and then toss the left over pigments. If you pour it into the ground, the solvents get into the water supply which is a big no no. I service machines and have customers all over the country. I would say at least 95% of them are using...

I've used masking tape for as long as I have been in the industry.

Yup. Looks like you aren't using color correction or just a bad profile.

Those machines were bad even when they were brand new! If you value your sanity, don't do it. They haven't manufactured those heads for over 5 years either.

Hold Function and Remote while powering on.

Either the head memory cable is unplugged, the memory is damaged, or the head is damaged. The head memory is attached to the head on the front. Make sure the cable is plugged in and doesn't have a ton of in splatter on it.