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It's in the Quality tab where you choose your profile. To the right of the profile window you should see Color Matching. Look at the settings for Illustration and Image. If they are the same, it should be good. If they are different, that could be causing the issue.

First thing that came to my mind is that the rendering intents are mismatched in one of the Rasterlinks. Have you changed any settings recently?

I have had Mojave Sign Ad up in the lobby for over 5 years and can still peel it off without peeling any paint.

It's funny, I have customers who have only ever used Rasterlink and they don't complain but anyone who has used a name brand RIP before using Rasterlink hates it. It gets better every version but I agree. It can be a very clunky program.

I know in Illustrator you can make a batch action that will convert all files in a given folder. If anyone knows of an equivalent in Corel that should be the way to go.

I heard Mimaki might be ending the free upgrade. They must have pulled the trigger. Other than that I think you'll have to buy it. It's pretty expensive but you Might check out Ebay or if your country has something like craigslist I have seen copies being sold their.

Your Rasterlink 5 key should work to activate 6. It's longer than the one required for 6 so you just fill in as much as you can and then it should activate. If it isn't, either something has changed with Mimaki or you haven't deactivated the one on the old computer.

The ink level sensor also has a little button attached to it which actually senses if the cartridge is installed or not. If that isn't in the proper position it could mean the cartridge isn't pushing the button. That would be my first guess. If it were the chip reader you would be getting a...

Which error is it giving you?

We carry the 2mm line that fits in the 1324. In my experience though it's not tapered. Yours might look tapered because the o-ring deforms it over time.

Shoot me an email. I can get you an OEM head for much cheaper than $3600 USD. Customerservice@solventinkjet.com

Run a SubTank Maintenance cycle and see if any errors pop up. If they do you might have an ink flow issue. If no error pops up, do an air purge and see if that takes care of it.

There is no way unfortunately. You can get a USB Ethernet hub and that allows you to network the printer but it requires use of the USB port. It sounds ridiculous but the Ethernet port is not able to receive print data.

99% of the time its a short in the print head circuit. Usually ink splatter or corrosion on the head cables or someone working on the machine with the plug still in and not discharging it. Power surges usually take out the power supply or main board but can take out a head if you're really unlucky.

In my experience, once a UV head has been cured shut, it's virtually impossible to open up. That being said, Global Garage does have a service to flush heads and I have heard of people having success. Globalgarage.com is the site I am pretty sure.

I have installed many a printer in a suburban garage or basement. It seems to be the side gig for a lot of people who already are successful in their day jobs. Every year the cost of entry into this industry lowers and more people will join up. More people will fail too.

Try opening it in Illustrator instead of placing it.

Most of my customers use the LH-100 on the smaller ones and LUS-150 on the JFX200. That being said, I do have a customer using the LH-100 on the JFX200 and he does fine printing on hockey pucks and acrylic for the most part.

LH-100 inks are good for scratch and chemical resistance. (Usually the smaller flat beds use these inks for promotional items that need really good scratch resistance but not a lot of flexibility) LUS-120 inks are good for scratch resistance and flexibility (Usually used on roll to roll machine...

That is an error that has to do with communication from the main board to the junction board. There is an Ethernet cable that connects the two boards. Make sure it's still plugged in. After that, it could just be a bad junction board or main board unfortunately. Before replacing boards though...