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The first thing I always check when this issue comes up is if the computer is falling asleep during printing. Make sure your sleep settings are turned off.
That printer can only print on poster paper up to 1.5 mm thick. If you want to print directly to foam core you are going to have to go with a flat bed (expensive machine) or a roll to roll printer that prints on adhesive backed vinyl that you apply to the board.
First thing I always check is the port in Flexi. Go to change port and see if it reset back to "File:" instead of an IP address. If it did, just set it back to IP address and input the IP. Flexi resets the port for some reason once in a while. After that, double check the IP on the printer and...
Seems to be the way everyone is going. Mimaki used to allow you to turn off all cleanings completely. Now they have what is called a refresh cycle. While it does use much less ink than a cleaning, you can't turn it off. I wouldn't be surprised if Mutoh's new models coming out will have something...
In my experience some Russian guy will have a hacked version of the peck tool in no time. Also, I am seeing a lot of comments on here about protecting the printer from the untrained end user messing something big up and ruining the machine. First of all that's their right and second, I can tell...
You don't have to change them every 2 months. 2 months is how much time they give you once the cartridge is actually expired. Usually when you buy new cartridges you get anywhere from 8 months to a year+. The easiest way would be to find someone who sells the chips. Usually 3rd party...
You will never be 100% charge back free over the long term. It's something you need to be able to weather. That being said, if you practice good credit card security policies, you can avoid a lot of problems. I get scam orders all the time and people who try to buy stuff with stolen credit...
If the head fuse is good for sure then the head could be fried. Any time the head doesn't fire a single drop even when ink flows through the maintenance station, it's an electrical issue. Do you have the old head to install and see if it fires anything?
It sounds like the black side of the head is electronically damaged which is probably blowing the fuse. If I were working on the machine, this is the point I would suggest replacing the head. Sounds like ink flow is fine.
The black/cyan head is either fried electronically or ink isn't able to flow through the head. I would cap the heads and pull from the cap tube with a syringe. If you get ink through and the head still doesn't fire, it's probably fried. The head can fry for the same reason the fuse blew.
Do a cable swap. Keep the head cables plugged in to the slider board but swap them at the heads so that the yellow/magenta cables are in the black/cyan head and vice versa. Do a test print and see what happens. If the black/cyan head starts firing and the magenta/yellow doesn't, you might have...
Looks like possibly a heat or material issue. Has the shop environment changed recently? Try printing the same thing on different material and see if there is a difference.
You need to do the head alignments. Also, get down at eye level with the platen and make sure the head is parallel with the platen. A common mistake when installing these heads is they aren't seated all the way down.
You're on the right track with dampers. Ink naturally recedes back to the cartridge when air is getting in the system or the damper is failing. Usually it's the damper or the o-ring that connects the damper to the ink line.
I work on the larger Mimaki UV machines so not an expert on the 3042 but in general with Mimaki printers, when you do an air purge it should eventually have a solid line of ink coming out of the tube. Air has to be getting in somewhere which would definitely cause 1 or more colors to just...
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