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Don't think it's a faulty ground because it is never constant, only a shock specifically after rewinding 20+ feet backwards thru the machine. and I've tried an outlet tester and everything seems okay. It's never shocked me in any scenario other than rewinding backwards at high speeds for a long...

Good to know I'm not the only one / doesn't seem like an electrical issue. Yeah I've been tapping on the guide rail in the back to release static in the days prior to the motor fully shitting the bed.

It doesn't seem to look out of the ordinary at all - sorry to keep barraging with questions but you think it's the best bet to just replace the motor? Edit: I retract this statement, lol. The black cord was bent up against the back of the chassis (I'm bending it on purpose in the pic so you...

So maybe just bad luck? Any idea if the shock could have caused it? Or if the screen still looking wonky from the shock could be indicative of anything worse?

3-4 weeks ago, I was shocked by my UCJV while rewinding the roll backwards after a long print, to send through the cut portion of the job. I noticed later that the screen looked a bit different (slightly washed out/interlaced looking). I can't remember if I just restarted the printer, or if I...

On OEM, usually a month or two before I have to turn the cut pressure to a ridiculous level like 110g~ for kiss cuts, 250g~ on perf Think I've had the same china blade in the cutting arm for easily the last 6 months, and I haven't changed cut pressure in the last 4 months topping out at 70-80g...

I have the exact opposite experience, with the Chinese blades both lasting longer and being 10-20x cheaper

Sheesh I guess it was 15 blades for $13.99 lol I don't think I've gone through a full pack yet. 15Pcs Replacement Blades for mimaki Cutter Plotter Vinyl 30 Degree 45 Degree 60 Degree Cutting Plotter Blades https://a.co/d/00geekSp

You can stack multiple clear layers (or copies of the same clear layer) and just check the "pull back after print" boxes on each. Then it only prints one color layer, and the series of clear layers. There's probably a less roundabout way of doing it though. I'm using RL6

As far as I'm aware you can't detect marks for printing (at least in RL6 on the 300), just cutting. On single label test prints I've done 9 layers of clear no problem, I'd say at least a mm or so in height above one pass of color ink. It's mainly doing a full row of them or more that it becomes...

You know if there's any way to keep the middle pinch rollers down during pullback printing? Seems to always be out of alignment, or cause bad media buckling.

Have you found any way to keep the rollers down while pull back printing? This is definitely the problem, and Roland machines allow you to enable all rollers for pull back... It's just so dumb to not give us an option? They claim it's so you don't get roller marks in your clear ink... WELL THEN...

Just cut deep on the perforation, I always have it go through the backing purposely. Have run tens of thousands of labels/stickers on the same blade no problem.

Amazon china blades, I got 3 for $15 and with one pack, they've lasted longer than 3 packs of OEM blades combined.

Are you able to emboss the gloss/matte finish? Whether through laying down thicker ink or just multiple passes? I've heard pullback/multiple passes on the colorado is not super accurate.

Bumping - this is with no head strikes btw. Anybody run into something like this or have any idea on how to get a more consistent clear layer?

That's a bummer but what I figured I guess. A shame they haven't gotten around to adding it. I generally just remote desktop to my printer but yeah it'd be nice to have access to the cleaning functions and such. Then you can set up a camera to see prints, and run everything while on vacation so...

Is there any way around this? Has anybody successfully spoofed firmware or installed UCJV330 firmware on their 300? Remote access seems like a game changer, being able to run through the printer start-up and start a print completely remotely? Has anybody figured something like this out or am I...

I'm having issues on large prints with big areas of clear ink being used. The front of the prints coming out of the machine have a silky smooth gloss layer on top of them, which degrades into major banding. I've read that since it degrades mid-print, that it could be an issue with head...

I'd also benefit greatly from this lol please send that my way. Need to figure out how to change head voltages.