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I use an old denatured alcohol can. I drop bits and blades in it. In the field I always wrap blades in tape before tossing them (mostly so I don't rip the garbage bag). I also learned the hard way about throwing them in the garbage loose. Never again will that happen.
First, great looking sign! I assume the wood has a clear coat? If it does, then it creates a great surface for adhesives to adhere to compared to straight onto the wood. Second, the pin/dowel method Notarealsignguy mentions plus Lexel would be a good combo. Pins keep it in place while Lexel can...
The Lassco-Wizer CR50B is what you need. It's more than $200, but for 040 and ACM it works perfectly. Purchased mine from MyBinding.com, and pretty sure they had the lowest price. I probably have used mine at most a dozen times but it's gonna last me decades so the $300 was worth it
97% of the time I use PDF because I've designed my prints specifically to have the artboards used. I have enough clients who end work that has stray points and clipping things that when loaded as an EPS all that information goes along with it. I also use PDF's because I can keep notes and info...
I agree with a summary of most comments above. First being, let it dry for a longer period of time to let the ink cure/dry on the vinyl. Generally I print and let it sit until the next day. Like another comment mentioned, yes rushing to laminate definitely has happened but I kinda stick to the...
I do wholesale, and basically charge $7.50 per DS sign for printing on vinyl and mounting. 95% of the time I just order them from signs365 and make the $15 for my client's laziness to order it from there themselves. For me yard signs are the giveaway product I supply. In the past I ran a...
I agree with the others, FC8600 is the best next step. l don't run enough plotted vinyl jobs to justify the FC8600 but it's the only machine I want to upgrade to. Plus the learning curve is basically zero, just better features like the cut-off knife. (yes the $4k more is worth it just for that.)
I bought Laguna smartshop 2. It's been good so far as a wallet conscious CNC. It has a standard vacuum table, multi tool changer and welded frame. I found it simple to use so far. I learned on a Multicam, and it's was more user conscious. Biggest feature I liked about the Multicam was being able...
What size table do you have? I've only used MDF for spoil boards. I have a 4x8 table and the sheets from home depot and lowes have worked out fine for me
VHB 4950. For a cheaper option I also use the VHB RP45. Both have been extremely consistent for the past decade. I also agree with Toad, Lexel is necessary for larger surface applications
I'm in the process of doing 4 of these and I've been doing the oracal calendared clear printed in reverse with white vinyl. Mounting I use a professional app fluid called "Splash", it's a concentrate so needs to be diluted but a little goes a long way. I've never had problems with this method...
I first learned to use EnRoute then found Aspire and loved the platform. I currently use V-Carve, which is basically the same as Aspire, without the 3D modeling (like woodgrain backgrounds for the sandblasted look), and have found it easier to use. I have never done much in the programs design...
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